Travel Adventures
lobster. The squid fishermen go out into the bay in the evenings, returning early to mid-morning, when they can be found in the narrow back-streets of the fishing hamlets, eating snacks and drinking beer and rice wine before going to bed. At some of the accommodation options you may be able to arrange a night out on-board one of the squid fishing vessels. The lobsters are farmed in cages submerged in the seawater; you’ ll see( and smell) the barnacled cages drying in the sun on the beaches. Most of the bays on Cam Lap Promontory are still working beaches: they haven’ t been cleaned up for tourists, so you’ ll see boats coming ashore with their catch, and woven coracles floating just offshore tending to their fishing nets. Needless to say, both the squid( mực) and lobster( tôm hùng) are fantastic here.
Because Cam Ranh Bay is such a good natural harbour, it has a history of military importance: both the USA and the USSR had naval stations here in the 20th century, and today the Vietnamese navy control it tightly. This is one of the reasons given to me by local people when I ask why such a beautiful place has yet to see significant development( not that I’ m complaining about it, of course). Although tourism has reached Cam Lap Promontory, it’ s still in its infancy, and this is a big part of its appeal. Accommodation ranges from beach camping to cozy dormitories to plush villas on stilts above the bay. Personally, I find the scenery here intensely pretty, the seafood fresh and delicious, the fishing villages charming and laid-back, and the people warm and welcoming: I was smitten from my very first visit.
ACCOMMODATION
There are only a handful of places to stay on Cam Lap Promontory, but between them there’ s enough variety to suit all budgets.( Note: all prices in all categories increase by around 30 % on weekends and public holidays.)
Dao Hoa Vang;( 50,000-500,000vnd); www. facebook. com / daohoavang; 090 991 7881; The newest addition to the spattering of accommodation options on Cam Lap Promontory is great news for budget travellers. Dao Hoa Vang has excellent dorms for 120,000vnd per person. The comfortable bunk beds are arranged in a clean room with a decent shared bathroom, just a couple of minutes’ walk for the beach. There are also private bedrooms sleeping 2-5 people( 500,000vnd) set in a shady garden. The beach belonging to Dao Hoa Vang has a few wood and canvas beach huts( 500,000vnd) for couples. In addition to this, you can camp on the beach: 50,000vnd to pitch your own tent, or 200,000vnd to rent a tent. It’ s all pretty good value and there’ s an appealing young-Vietnamese-backpacker vibe to this place.
Camping in style: a night under the canvas at Ngoc Suong Yen Bay is memorable
Ngoc Suong Yen Bay Resort( camping);( 300,000-700,000vnd); www. ngocsuong. com. vn / yen-resort;(+ 84) 58 2222 892; Although the rooms at this spectacularly located resort are upwards of $ 100, there’ s a great deal for budget travellers if you camp here. Accessed via a dirt road from the eastern side of the promontory that leads over to the western side, the resort allows you to pitch your own tent on the beach for 300,000vnd( up to 3 people per tent) or rent a 2-person tent for 500,000vnd( or 700,000vnd if you want to include breakfast). You must also pay a 50,000vnd entrance fee. It may sound a bit dear for camping but, trust me, once you see the‘ campsite’ you’ ll immediately change your mind. There’ s lots of sandy space under coconut palms leading onto a glorious double beach where you can set up camp. Bathrooms aren’ t great, but who cares. What’ s more, if you visit on a weekday, you may have it all to yourself. Inquire at the resort reception for camping equipment and payment.
Bai Tam Anh Tu;( 50,000-150,000vnd) 0163 585 9541; Further up the concrete lane, beyond Dao Hoa Vang and Binh Chau, there’ s see a sign on the right for Bai Tam Anh Tu. A cashew and mango orchard on raised ground above a boulder-strewn beach bursting with tropical colour, camping here is very atmospheric indeed. In theory, you can pitch your own tent anywhere on the grounds( including under the thatched gazebos), or swing yourself to sleep in one of their hammocks, or lie out on the ground in a sleeping bag under a mosquito net( 50,000-150,000vnd for any of the above). However, last time I visited, the friendly family
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