Travel Adventures
lobster . The squid fishermen go out into the bay in the evenings , returning early to mid-morning , when they can be found in the narrow back-streets of the fishing hamlets , eating snacks and drinking beer and rice wine before going to bed . At some of the accommodation options you may be able to arrange a night out on-board one of the squid fishing vessels . The lobsters are farmed in cages submerged in the seawater ; you ’ ll see ( and smell ) the barnacled cages drying in the sun on the beaches . Most of the bays on Cam Lap Promontory are still working beaches : they haven ’ t been cleaned up for tourists , so you ’ ll see boats coming ashore with their catch , and woven coracles floating just offshore tending to their fishing nets . Needless to say , both the squid ( mực ) and lobster ( tôm hùng ) are fantastic here .
Because Cam Ranh Bay is such a good natural harbour , it has a history of military importance : both the USA and the USSR had naval stations here in the 20th century , and today the Vietnamese navy control it tightly . This is one of the reasons given to me by local people when I ask why such a beautiful place has yet to see significant development ( not that I ’ m complaining about it , of course ). Although tourism has reached Cam Lap Promontory , it ’ s still in its infancy , and this is a big part of its appeal . Accommodation ranges from beach camping to cozy dormitories to plush villas on stilts above the bay . Personally , I find the scenery here intensely pretty , the seafood fresh and delicious , the fishing villages charming and laid-back , and the people warm and welcoming : I was smitten from my very first visit .
ACCOMMODATION
There are only a handful of places to stay on Cam Lap Promontory , but between them there ’ s enough variety to suit all budgets . ( Note : all prices in all categories increase by around 30 % on weekends and public holidays .)
Dao Hoa Vang ; ( 50,000-500,000vnd ); www . facebook . com / daohoavang ; 090 991 7881 ; The newest addition to the spattering of accommodation options on Cam Lap Promontory is great news for budget travellers . Dao Hoa Vang has excellent dorms for 120,000vnd per person . The comfortable bunk beds are arranged in a clean room with a decent shared bathroom , just a couple of minutes ’ walk for the beach . There are also private bedrooms sleeping 2-5 people ( 500,000vnd ) set in a shady garden . The beach belonging to Dao Hoa Vang has a few wood and canvas beach huts ( 500,000vnd ) for couples . In addition to this , you can camp on the beach : 50,000vnd to pitch your own tent , or 200,000vnd to rent a tent . It ’ s all pretty good value and there ’ s an appealing young-Vietnamese-backpacker vibe to this place .
Camping in style : a night under the canvas at Ngoc Suong Yen Bay is memorable
Ngoc Suong Yen Bay Resort ( camping ); ( 300,000-700,000vnd ); www . ngocsuong . com . vn / yen-resort ; (+ 84 ) 58 2222 892 ; Although the rooms at this spectacularly located resort are upwards of $ 100 , there ’ s a great deal for budget travellers if you camp here . Accessed via a dirt road from the eastern side of the promontory that leads over to the western side , the resort allows you to pitch your own tent on the beach for 300,000vnd ( up to 3 people per tent ) or rent a 2-person tent for 500,000vnd ( or 700,000vnd if you want to include breakfast ). You must also pay a 50,000vnd entrance fee . It may sound a bit dear for camping but , trust me , once you see the ‘ campsite ’ you ’ ll immediately change your mind . There ’ s lots of sandy space under coconut palms leading onto a glorious double beach where you can set up camp . Bathrooms aren ’ t great , but who cares . What ’ s more , if you visit on a weekday , you may have it all to yourself . Inquire at the resort reception for camping equipment and payment .
Bai Tam Anh Tu ; ( 50,000-150,000vnd ) 0163 585 9541 ; Further up the concrete lane , beyond Dao Hoa Vang and Binh Chau , there ’ s see a sign on the right for Bai Tam Anh Tu . A cashew and mango orchard on raised ground above a boulder-strewn beach bursting with tropical colour , camping here is very atmospheric indeed . In theory , you can pitch your own tent anywhere on the grounds ( including under the thatched gazebos ), or swing yourself to sleep in one of their hammocks , or lie out on the ground in a sleeping bag under a mosquito net ( 50,000-150,000vnd for any of the above ). However , last time I visited , the friendly family
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