Travel Adventures
9. HISTORY:
Both Con Dao and Phu Quoc were used as prison islands during French colonial times, and later by the Americans, during the‘ Vietnam War’. And both islands are linked – whether through history or legend – to a French missionary, Pigneau de Behaine, and a southern Vietnamese prince, Nguyen Anh, who, with the help of Behaine, became Emperor Gia Long, the first monarch of Vietnam’ s last imperial dynasty. These events took place toward the end of the 18th century, and would influence the next 100 years of Vietnam’ s foreign and domestic policies, eventually leading to French domination of the country. On Phu Quoc there is an interesting, if unexpected, museum displaying all sorts of artifacts found on the island. A few kilometers south of Duong Dong Town, Coi Nguon Museum is well-worth a visit: www. coinguonphuquoc. com Most Vietnamese visitors to Con Dao come to pay their respects to the thousands of political prisoners who were incarcerated, executed, or lost their lives to disease and starvation, while imprisoned on the island. The prison‘ sights’ are sobering and sad, but they are informa-
Phi Yen’ s shrine on Con Dao
tive and well-maintained, including a large new museum. Legend and folklore also play their part on Con Dao, and much of the island’ s older history is difficult to separate from myth. One story tells how Prince Nguyen Anh’ s wife, Phi Yen, killed herself after the prince ordered their son thrown into the sea. Today, her ghost is said to haunt the archipelago, and she is worshiped at a shrine.
10. ACTIVITIES:
Both Con Dao and Phu Quoc are part of small archipelagoes, consisting of dozens of tiny outlying islands. These can be visited by chartered boats booked through tour companies, along with snorkeling and diving equipment. Most of the smaller islands are uninhabited and very beautiful. Diving on Con Dao is by far the best in Vietnam: check Dive, Dive, Dive! for details: www. dive-condao. com Nothing quite beats hiring a motorbike on either island, and riding along the coastal roads, stopping to swim at empty beaches. The road network on Phu Quoc is now pretty extensive, whereas Con Dao has only a couple of roads, but they are in good condition, empty of traffic, and very scenic indeed. The interiors of both islands are covered in thick jungle. The majority of Phu Quoc
Wildlife: macaques on Con Dao and Con Dao islands are part of national parks. The park headquarters can arrange treks through the forests to streams, waterfalls, and secluded bays. Con Dao has some particularly beautiful walks, and you will almost certainly see( and hear) some wildlife.
11. WOW FACTOR:
I love both islands. But, for me, Con Dao has the edge over Phu Quoc. The moment you land on the tiny airstrip – stepping onto the asphalt in the dawn light, with the mountains looming behind – you know you’ re somewhere special; somewhere unique. The drive along the coast road from the airport into Con Son Town only confirms this: it’ s spine-tinglingly good. Phu Quoc is the more convenient of the two, but Con Dao has the wow factor.
SPECIAL THANKS TO VIETNAM CORACLE INDEPENDENT TRAVEL GUIDES TO VIETNAM
Text and Images by: VietnamCoracle. com
42 The MAG Vung Tau