The Good Life France Magazine Winter 2018 | Page 57

More than a quarter of a million people head to the small city of Le Mans in the department of Sarthe, Pays de La Loire each June for the epic Le Mans 24 Hours – one of the most famous car races in the world. The majority of them watch the race, enjoy the local cuisine and the friendly bars and leave.

Amazingly most of them never even realise that there is a most beautiful old town just a few steps away from that legendary race course which runs through the streets of the newer parts of Le Mans. They don’t spot the Roman ruins, they miss the cobble- stoned alleyways lined with half-timbered houses. And, they haven’t a clue about the fabulous medieval architecture.

They don’t know that on the outskirts of the town there is an astounding historic abbey where a queen is buried, as well as a fabulous nature reserve with a spectacular restaurant. There’s a famous saying, don’t be a tourist, be a traveller, and Le Mans is the perfect town to illustrate just why you shouldn’t race through - but take your time to discover its charms.

What to see in Le Mans

You’re walking in the footsteps of the greats – the Romans, the Plantagenets and Robert Doisneau, the famous photographer!

Roman legacy

The presence of the Latin conquerors can be easily spotted at the Roman Wall, a 500m section of it is wonderfully preserved on the River Sarthe side of town. With its distinctive pink mortar and ochre sandstone blocks, this wall once encircled the city of Le Mans, which takes its name from an ancient tribe: Cenomani. Hidden away in some of the medieval houses in the town, there are even more Roman remains. I was lucky enough to get a peek inside one when I visited at the end of September for the fabulous open garden event known as: www.entrecoursetjardins.com. Locals opened their doors to the public to show off their gorgeous courtyard gardens, and in one of them, the lovely French family offered a glimpse of their Roman cellar, complete with a Roman charcoal burner. This is a town that’s full of surprises.