In 1661, the famous French writer and poet Jean de la Fontaine wrote of Vaux-le-Vicomte:
The stage was set with green so lush,
and by a hundred torches lit;
Once curtain raised, all Vaux was hushed,
All strove to please this King of ours:
Music, cascades, lanterns and stars…
More than 350 years later, de la Fontaine would certainly recognise the castle and his description would be unchanged other than that it is not a King who will thrill to the sight but visitors who will relish the music, cascades, lanterns and stars on show at Vaux at Christmas.
Just 35 minutes by train from Gare de l'Est in the centre of Paris brings you to Maincy where a shuttle bus whisks you to the historic 17th century Chateau of Vaux-le-Vicomte. At Christmas it takes on an extra layer of glitter and air of enchantment when rooms are decorated with thousands of lights, garlands and baubles and this captivating castle presents a unique festive show.
"Sparkles, twinkles... the smell of Christmas spices..."
Sparkles, twinkles, the smell of Christmas spices and chocolate, traditional carol songs and glowing lights. But this is no Disney castle, Vaux-le-Vicomtes Christmas coat is traditional, classic and just a little kitsch as the best Christmas’s should be.
Rooms are adorned with lights, Christmas trees and vintage toys, scented with cinnamon and chocolate, spices and sweet smells. It’s a unique presentation of Christmas in an incredible setting.
As you walk up the path to the chateau, it’s a wow moment. Glittering Christmas trees line the route, the castle is festooned with giant festive bows and two huge toy soldiers stand either side of the door that leads into the largest private domaine in France.
50 years of visitors
Incredibly the chateau was a wedding present to the current resident, 90 year old Count Patrice de Voguë in 1967. He has made it his life’s work to protect the castle for future generations. A chateau of this size isn’t easy or cheap to maintain, so he opened the doors to the public in 1968, inspired by the British National Trust (which is entrusted with opening buildings of major interest to the public), and in particular by Highgrove house, home to Prince Charles.
The Count's son Alexandre, who together with his brothers Ascanio and Jean-Charles now runs the estate, says that his father began the Christmas at the Chateau event 12 years ago, again inspired by Highgrove House. The event has become more and more popular over the years, and in 2017 more than 67,000 visitors headed to Vaux-Le-Vicomte to enjoy the Christmas fun.
What began as just a weekend event attracts so many visitors that the castle is now open from Wednesday to Sunday (until 23 December) and daily until 6 January (excluding Christmas day and New Year’s Day).
Click to read about the etraordinary history of Vaux-le-Vicomte