The Roman legacy
The Romans called the city Burdigala and there are remains of their presence, from the ruins of an amphitheatre known locally as 'Le Palais Gallien' to towers hidden inside buildings. They started off importing wine from Italy and Spain but in 1AD began planting a grape species called Biturica, the ancestor of Cabernet Franc.
You can’t walk more than a few steps in the city without reminders of that monumental decision the Romans took - there are wine bars everywhere.
“Can you tell me what’s the best wine bar in Bordeaux?” I ask a local outside the tourist office where I stopped to pick up a map. He ponders and points across the road “Maison Gobineau is magnifique” he enthuses “every kind of Bordeaux wine there and not expensive at all”.
I head off to find this wine paradise. It looks very chic and sleek from outside and I wonder about the not expensive comment. Inside there are stained glass windows, an Aubusson tapestry behind the bar, rack upon rack of bottles and a very long wine list menu which I pick up cautiously. “2 Euros a glass?” I can’t help exclaiming out loud. The bar man smiles at me and explains that it’s about making the wines of Bordeaux accessible and known to all. I feel it would be churlish to resist and indulge in what the barman says is a “cheeky, spicy red”.
After this I’m ready to continue my tour having been given a potted history of Bordeaux wines - did you know that there are about 9000 wine makers in the region and each make an average of 2-3 varieties... astonishing! If you only go to one wine bar (which would be tough on you I must say) go to this one, it’s terrific.