Bordeaux used to have a reputation for being a bit grubby which is hard to believe as you wander its streets of honey-coloured buildings. But, if you head to the 17th century Church of Notre Dame (modelled after the Church of Gesú in Rome), stand facing it and look to your left, you’ll see a tea room and in between the church and the tea room is a narrow alley. Look at the walls there, you’ll see what colour Bordeaux was before the big clean up began in 1995 and left it the mellow, gleaming blonde stone beauty it is today.
Locals recall the dark days when the buildings were blackened by years of pollution so that you couldn’t see the lovely carvings and sculptures and the walkways by the river were blocked by ugly warehouses.
The project to beautify Bordeaux is ongoing and seems to have a moving goal post, currently it extends to 2050, with the introduction of a new tram line, the continued regeneration of the docklands and more museums opening. The ugly warehouses are no more, instead there are swanky shops and loads of bars and restaurants, pleasant walkways and fabulous views. Now the quaysides are busy with runners, cyclists and people enjoying themselves. The Miroir d’Eau, a water sculpture in front of the impressive Place de la Bourse draws people day and night to marvel at and enjoy it, kids splash in the water and cool down in the misty spray.
Don’t miss in Bordeaux
There were 350 churches in Bordeaux before the French Revolution, many of them are now deconsecrated and have been transformed into restaurants, art galleries even a cinema.