assault on your senses in Villefranche-de-Rouergue
Before you head on further south, allow yourself yet another indulgence and head west over the rolling hills to Villefranche-de-Rouergue, one of the region’s five 13th century “new concept” bastide towns with a distinctly southern feel. From the rawness of the Aubrac and the deep gorges and ravines cut by the rivers Aveyron and Dordou, arriving in the evening to the grid style streets, tall timbered merchant’s houses and limestone arcades has a refreshing feel to it. But come morning, particularly on market day (Thursday) the town explodes into a melting pot of colours, scents, sounds and irresistibly tasty treats.
One of the best in Aveyron, the body of the market fills the main square (Place Notre Dame) but spills out in every direction showcasing fruit, veg, spices, sticky sweets, warm breads and patisseries, herbs, flowers, meats slow turning on the spit and vast pans of steaming shell fish, all teasing and tempting you into the many backstreets. When you’re ready, escape down to the calm of the esplanade near the riverbank where you can cool off in the sleepy shade of a plane tree before continuing on your journey south.
Far right, Aubrac; mid top; the market at Villedranche-de-Rouergue; below far left: the Cathedral at Rodez; below Street in Villefranche-de-Rouergue