The Good Life France Magazine Spring 2017 | Page 62

Abbey Fontevraud

This has to be one of the most beautiful abbeys in all of France – and there are a lot of them. The Abbey de Fontevraud is the burial place of Richard the Lionheart and Eleanor of Aquitaine. It has immense history you can almost feel when you walk through the doors and into the cool interior with enormously high ceilings, Byzantine style domes and white stone walls.

Unusually this was an abbey that was run by women, powerful Abesses who answered only to the King and the Pope. The women who lived here dedicated their lives to praying. It was a hard life; they were not allowed to speak to each other or make eye contact, even during meals. When Louise de Bourbon (1673–1743) became Abbesse it became quite popular for the aristocracy to send daughters there. Gorgeous paintings show Louise had herself added to a religious scene, it seems vanity didn't completely disappear and subsequent Abesses followed her lead - making this an early "selfie". During the French Revolution the Abbey became a prison which closed in 1963. In 1975 it was designated a place of culture and arts, fabulous exhibitions are displayed in some of the ancient chambers.

On site is a beautiful hotel converted from one of the buildings. Truly tranquil, it is exquisitely updated keeping as many features as possible whilst being a truly luxurious experience. The air is scented with oils, the rooms are spacious and über luxurious but organic at the same time. Staying here gives you access to the abbey and the gorgeous gardens. The bar and restaurant are open to non-residents and are worth going for on their own merits.

Above: Louise de Bourbon in a centuries old "selfie"