Urbanisation of Saumur came with the Age of Enlightenment (mid 17th century). It brought an attempt to eradicate the bad old ways including sadly, the abolishment of medieval buildings. They were considered dark, damp, small and unsanitary. The movement took place all over France and though today we are horrified by the destruction, then it was seen as a wonderful opportunity to improve living conditions and create a better place. New buildings went up, made with light coloured stone, wide avenues and airy squares were constructed. Luckily, laziness prevailed enough to keep some of those wonderful old buildings.
Saumur today is a flowery town which feels prosperous and unhurried, those cream coloured buildings have mellowed and contrast beautifully with their pale shutters.
It’s a great place for wandering. You’ll discover the remains of the ancient walls of the city,and plenty of surprises. Head to the Belvedere Hotel and push a button on a gate to enter a pretty courtyard, walk down “the streets of hell” and into Place st Pierre, lined with beautiful buildings some of which go back to the 15th century. Here you will find plenty of cafés and places to while away the hours while you enjoy the local wine and produce - it's a gourmet pleasure Place.
Don’t miss Saumur Chateau built in the 12th century. It was converted to a military barracks and later a prison, causing it to lose its looks. However it has been partially restored after architect Jean Drapeau found a picture by chance in a chapel showing it as a fairytale looking castle in 1410. He restored the towers and gold finials of this quite enormous building. It's not furnished, but absolutely worth going to for its good looks and the view over the town and the river – it is stunning.
Credit: Terry Webb