Gordes, in the Luberon region of Provence, is one of the most popular of the officially prettiest villages of France. You need to climb to the ancient hilltop settlement, lined with buff coloured dry-stone walls. The flat rectangles of rock are like tightly packed, chunky slabs of toast. If you come in on the D15 departmental road from Cavaillon, stop by the side of the road below the Bel Air rock for the best photos of the village, and a panoramic view down over the valley of distant green tiles – the Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon. From this angle, the village looks like the human version of a mud wasp nest with little modules, arranged side by side and layered up the hillside. Its spectacular position, outlook and charm have earned the village a position of privilege and high real estate prices.
Gordes has become the getaway of the wealthy. But it hasn’t always been so chic. The site has been occupied since prehistoric times and there’s a medieval castle at the summit, which served as a fortress from the 10th century. The town was built to protect its inhabitants. The labyrinth of buildings made from stone the colour of pale whipped honey and topped with terracotta tiles – twists and turns through the village. Even the dividing fences are made from stone. That’s the rule.
Several superstars of French painting have sought solace and inspiration in the cradle of this stunning valley. Renoir, Picasso, Matisse and Van Gogh all put brush to canvas here in Gordes.