Every major city has its iconic street . The boutique-lined boulevard . The monumental avenue . Or perhaps the quaint quarter fringed with historic houses . But few can boast anything to match the elegant city of Pau , capital of the Béarn region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine .
Pau ’ s must-do walkway is the Boulevard des Pyrenees , bordered on one side by imposing Belle Epoque apartment blocks and , on the other – yes , you guessed it – by the distant jagged peaks of the Pyrenees .
But don ’ t hold your breath . You do need a modicum of luck to enjoy the spectacular backdrop to this wonderful high-level boulevard .
Belle Epoque Boulevards
I ’ ve been to Pau twice before and on both occasions have found this rugged mountain frontier stubbornly hidden in cloud , so I ’ m delighted third-time round to see the mountains towering into the evening sky . I can even identify them , each one neatly labelled on the iron railings that fringe the south side of the Boulevard . Just line up the notch on the balustrade with the tall chimney on the old tramway factory below .
The Boulevard begins just a short walk from my stylish overnight accommodation at the Hôtel Parc Beaumont , which overlooks a glorious green space broken up by magnificent trees and tranquil lakes .
Stay here during the legendary car races in May and you ’ ll have a front row seat on the action as the drivers race past . The rest of the year , this modern hotel is a tranquil base for exploring the town on foot .