The Good Life France Magazine Autumn/Winter 2019 | Page 26

Head behind the Basilica of Saint-Sauveur (a very short walk from the centre of town) for the most remarkable views over the river.

Afterwards visit the church (12th-15th century) to discover a legend. Saint-Sauveur Basilica holds the heart of a French hero - Bertrand du Guesclin. Born in Brittany about 1320, it’s said he was so ugly his family disowned him. He became a soldier and when Dinan was besieged by the English in the 100 Years War he defended the town with his brother Olivier. An English soldier, Sir Thomas Canterbury, kidnapped and ransomed the unarmed Olivier when he took a walk in the countryside and Du Guesclin fought for the return of his brother. He won and the English withdrew their forces.

He later became a Constable of France (military leader) which some Bretons considered a traitorous move because Brittany was not part of France at the time and they were often at war. Du Guesclin requested that when he died he be buried in Dinan. But his remains were taken to the Basilica of St Denis in Paris where French Royals were interred. though his heart, was taken to Dinan. It’s position is marked with a gold heart.

In front of the Basilica is a square with a few bars and restaurants, it’s a quieter part of Dinan, largely frequented by the locals as visitors don’t know it’s here.

Boat trip on the river Rance

One of the prettiest places in Dinan is the port area. Ancient stone houses, shops and bars look onto the lofty Lanvalley-Dinan Viaduct which was inaugurated in 1852.

Hop aboard the Jaman V boat to cruise the river Rance. You can buy tickets at the tourist office or the ticket kiosk when its open – it’s at a brown cube like hut, next to les Terraces restaurant at the bottom of rue du Petit Fort.