The Good Life France Magazine Autumn 2018 | Page 41

Gilles paid homage to King Francois and his wife Queen Claude by having their initials carved on the walls. Flattery did no good, the proud owners never had time to enjoy their home. A general investigation ordered by Francis I revealed embezzlement. Berthelot fled, abandoning his wife Philippe and his château, he died in 1529. Francis I seized the unfinished Château and gave it to one of his loyal followers. In places you can see carvings begun and doomed to never to be finished, it adds to the romance.

Château d'Azay-le-Rideau today

The Chateau today is under state ownership and it is one of the absolute jewels of the Loire Valley. Incredibly pretty inside and out, the river that surrounds it reflects its beauty in a thousand ripples.

Recent renovations (completed in 2017) revealed some of the chateau’s secrets, for instance the practice of bulrush matting for the walls. The tradition was spotted by an eagle-eyed historian in a 16th century tapestry of a man getting dressed. You’ll now see this in the bedroom that was Philippe’s. In her day, it wasn’t just a place to sleep but to live, she would receive visitors there, eat and work in the room, so keeping it warm in winter and cool in summer was essential and the wall coverings helped as did raising the bed off the floor on a platform. It was also believed that the smell of the reeds expelled bad moods and cleansed the air!

Centuries of pigeons roosting on the roof had left the famously white castle a rather dull grey – not any more. Artisans and craftsmen have repaired and restored the chateau to glory using authentic methods, creating a new path which goes all around the castle and giving it a whole new lease of life.

photo: Terry Webb

Photo Terry Webb