The Good Life France Magazine Autumn 2017 | Page 60

Lucy Pitts explores The noble town of Grignan and its Parisian style surprise

What a surprise Grignan is as you round a corner on your way to Nyons, in southern Drôme in the south of the Rhône Alpes region. This 11th century, fortified village suddenly comes into view, majestic and proud above the low lying lavender fields, looking decidedly regal in an area that still oozes rustic charm.

There are a couple of different roads into the footings of the village and the one I chose felt very grand. Plane trees either side heralded my arrival as I swept through a small parkland area and arrived at the first wall of the fortifications.

A farmer was hard at work putting his lavender fields to bed right up to the village boundary and the wall is broken by an imposing gate with large stone pillars either side, suggesting a medieval village with a bit more of a story to tell.

A village with a secret

Turn the corner and a broad esplanade escorts you to the first steps up to into the heart of the village and to a large, 19th century, circular bath surrounded by columns, known as the Lavoir du Mail. With the Mistral wind constantly pulling at your hair and the heat of an early September day, a quick dip and cool off is quite tempting.

As you climb on, what awaits you inside the walls is a charming medieval village. There’s a tiered system of narrow and cobbled streets that wind their way around and up to the apex of the hill, with views across the lavender, vineyards and sunflowers. It’s predominantly pedestrian and makes a pleasant morning, walking fully around the village, stopping at the boutiques or at a pavement café.