The Gentleman Magazine Issue 7 | February 2018 | Page 10
More than 260 years of perpetually renewed efforts entirely
directed towards attaining the highest standards of quality
make this emblem the very symbol of horological excellence.
It is echoed by the design of the FIFTYSIX® watches, since the
lugs of their cases are inspired by the branches of the Maltese
cross. This exclusive shape is bound to exercise a particular
attraction on devotees and discerning enthusiasts.
Box-type crystal:
Another bridge between the past and the present can be seen in
the distinctive shape of the box-type crystal rising well above
the bezel. Historically made from Plexiglas or mineral glass,it
is now in sapphire, a far more scratch-resistant material, while
preserving the retro- contemporary look of the FIFTYSIX®
collection.
Self-winding movements:
Naturally, both in tribute to the self-winding movement of the
6073 and for the wearer’s convenience, all the versions of the
FIFTYSIX® collection, including those with complications, are
powered by a self-winding movement, with a new calibre for
the three-hand variation. A transparent caseback provides a
chance to admire the movement finishing – Côtes de Genève,
circular graining and snailing – as well as the new oscillating
weight designed by Vacheron Constantin for this collection.
This polished and satin-brushed 22 carats openworked rotor,
bearing a Maltese Cross applique and a frosted-snailed finish,
represents a signature feature of all FIFTYSIX® models.
Gold and steel:
For the first time in its history, the Maison has decided to offer
a classic collection both in gold and in steel, while treating the
latter material with the same high aesthetic standards as the
precious metal. As an example of this, see the use of white gold
hands and appliques on the steel versions of the FIFTYSIX®.
Sector-type dial:
One of the collection’s distinguishing characteristics lies in
the appearance of its sector-type dial. While the chapter ring,
punctuated by alternating Arabic numerals and baton-type
hour-markers, channels its 1950s inspiration, the presence on
the surface of two subtle tones achieved by finishing effects
lends an additional touch of elegance and sophistication.
The play of light across the dial gives it depth and a stronger
personality.
It is by reinterpreting its own roots that the FIFTYSIX®
collection achieves a distinctive style by adopting a crown
recessed into the case, thereby setting it apart from its 1956
predecessor, which took a more classic approach to this specific
detail.
A collection expressed through three models, each with its
own variations:
The FIFTYSIX® collection presented at the SIHH 2018
comprises three 40 mm diameter models available in various
steel or gold versions:
• Date
• Day of the week, date, power-reserve indicator
• Complete calendar with precision moon phase
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FIFTYSIX® self-winding
The 40 mm-diameter steel or 18 carats 5N pink gold case of
this model houses a brand-new mechanical self-winding
movement, Calibre 1326, endowed with a 48-hour power
reserve.
Featuring the 22 carats openworked Maltese cross-shaped
oscillating weight, this watch displaying the hours, minutes,
central seconds and an aperture-type date indication is
equipped with a stop-seconds device.
The movement finishing – Côtes de Genève, circular graining
and snailing – can be admired through the transparent sapphire
crystal caseback.
Alternating gold Arabic numerals and hour-markers enliven
the monochrome dial with its double opaline-sunburst effect:
grey on the steel version and silver-toned on the pink gold
version. The baton-type gold hours and minutes hands, as well
as the hour-markers, are coated with a luminescent material.
This model in th e FIFTYSIX® collection is fitted with an
alligator leather strap secured by a polished half Maltese cross-
shaped steel folding clasp or pin gold buckle depending on the
version.
FIFTYSIX® day-date with power-reserve indicator
The day-date FIFTYSIX® with its 40 mm-diameter case in steel
or 18 carats 5N pink gold provides additional functions driven
by its self-winding movement, Calibre 2475 SC/2. Equipped
with a stop-seconds device, the latter powers the day of the
week indication appearing at 9 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock and
the power-reserve display at 6 o’clock.
The 22 carats gold openworked oscillating weight visible
through the sapphire crystal caseback is fitted with a ceramic
ball bearing rotation system requiring no lubrication and
guaranteeing the movement’s longevity.
In keeping with the characteristic face of this collection, this
version features a monochrome dial with double opaline-
sunburst effect, enhanced by the additional contrast of its two
snailed counters. Gold Arabic numerals, hour-markers and
hours & minutes hands punctuate the dial of this FIFTYSIX®
model, teamed with an alligator leather strap secured by a
polished half Maltese cross-shaped steel folding clasp or gold
pin buckle, depending on the version.
FIFTYSIX® complete calendar with precision moon phase
The FIFTYSIX® complete calendar model is the collection
highlight. Behind the understated elegance of its monochrome
dial with opaline-sunburst effect lies one of the horological
complications most appreciated by discerning connoisseurs
and collectors. The indications of the day of the week,
date, month and moon phase are driven by a self-winding
movement, Calibre 2460 QCL/1, equipped with a 22 carats
openworked oscillating weight adorned with the Maltese cross
emblem. Its construction and its extreme precision mean that
the moon- phase function requires adjustment only once every
122 years (compared with once every three years or a standard
moon phase).
, Security in Motion”