The Farmers Mart Aug/Sep 2015 - Issue 41 | Page 32

Arable BACK IN FAVOUR – RHUBARB, and how we nearly lost it Editor Pat Gwynnette looks at the uniquely Yorkshire story of rhubarb…. »»A friend brought me a load of rhubarb recently, so I spent some time knocking out crumbles and pies for the deep freeze. It may seem old-fashioned but forced Yorkshire rhubarb is now favoured by top chefs such as Yorkshire’s own gorgeous James Martin as well as Rick Stein and Hugh Fernley-Whittingstall. Whenever I offer it as a hot crumble pudding with ginger and cream or custard, it never fails to appeal! But in WW2, we came close to losing this ancient Yorkshire delicacy largely as a result of sugar rationing. Behind the survival of rhubarb is the story of a family’s determination and the support of an organisation that is leading the UK in horticultural technology today. War time Britain’s palate was rather on the sweet side, and sugar rations were not available in the quantities needed to bring this sharp flavoured vegetable to their taste. This situation was compounded postwar, when overseas trade and refrigerated logistics facilitated the trade of new and exciting tropical fruits. This spelt disaster for the Yorkshire rhubarb triangle, as the producers were massively over-producing and making a loss on their production costs. Sadly, some went bankrupt, others sold up and most turned to other crops. Thanks to the tenacity and true Yorkshire grit of the Oldroyd family of Lofthouse, and in particular Ken, the son of the founder of E. Oldroyd and Son, some growers persevered. To help safeguard the future of his crop, Ken sought advice from Stockbridge Technology Centre and the independent research station became involved in a range of trials in the late 1980s and early 1990s. A high proportion of the UK’s specialist growers of rhubarb were, and still are, located within 20 miles of Stockbridge Technology Centre’s site at Cawood, near Selby. In order to safeguard the future of Yorkshire Rhubarb, scientists and crop specialists examined all aspects of production to improve both yield and 32 Aug/Sep 2015 www.farmers-mart.co.uk quality, to offset increasing production costs and to prepare the industry for future customer demands in taste, quality, and presentation. Stockbridge Tecnhology Centre’s first Station Director, the late F G Smith, was largely responsible for the development of the outstanding varieties of Stockbridge Arrow, Stockbridge Harbinger and Cawood Delight. His work was then continued by J.D.Whitwell and finally by M R Bradley. As this was happening a strong link developed between the research centre and Mr Oldroyd. He was invited to join the Advisory Committee at Stockbridge House in 1981 and was re-elected for 11 years until its re-organisation in 1992. For his services to the rhubarb industry Ken was awarded the Northern Horticultural Societies highest award, The Harlow Carr Medal in 1995. Sadly Ken, known as the ‘Rhubarb King’, died in 2007. His selfless devotion to the industry made him one of the horticultural A painting of Stockbridge station director, F.G. Smith hangs in the board room at Stockbridge House, home to Stockbridge Technology Centre. industries most respected and admired figures of his time. Ken left a great legacy behind, a rhubarb industry that has survived, thanks in part to his determination and dedication. Today the family company he worked so hard to build up produces yearly around 1,000 tons of rhubarb for UK supermarkets, while the experts at Stockbridge Technology Centre continue to share their agricultural and horticultural expertise with clients worldwide. http://www.stockbridgeonline.co.uk. http://www.yorkshirerhubarb.co.uk/ ruhbarb_triangle.htm