music and dancing , laughter , teenage horseplay , and plenty of romance , which Cubans somehow distill into a more concentrated form .
As far as must-see tourist destinations , I present El Morro . An impressive fortress perched on a high promontory across the harbor . El Morro was built in the 1500 ’ s to protect Havana ’ s valuable trade routes . Besides a fascinating history , we enjoyed jaw-dropping views of Havana .
Havana ’ s nightlife and food scenes were far better than I expected . I had one of the best meals of my life in Havana , and the best Mojitos . But you have to do your homework because I also had some disappointing , overpriced meals meant to fleece tourists .
In the nightlife category do not miss trendy Fabrica de Arte Cubano . A labyrinthine mash-up of buildings containing randomly encountered bars , cafes , art installations , tiny fashion shops , performance venues , hidden VIP lounges and outdoor spaces . FAC attracts a mostly young , hip , urban crowd . It reminded me of unusual , trendy spots back in Brooklyn . To me , Fabrica represented the new Havana , a Havana of possibilities .
Somewhat unexpectedly , for me the sleeper of the trip ended up being the people . I can ’ t recall traveling anywhere urban where people seemed so relaxed , warm and tolerant of tourists . In spite of pervasive poverty and a crumbling infrastructure , the Cuban people generally seem content , accepting , and often just simply happy .
In sweltering heat Cubans of varying ages can be found taking in the goings-on from open doorways and balconies , conversing on street corners , going about their business at an unrushed pace . Asking for directions in very broken Spanish never resulted in attitude , just sincere attempts to send the gringo along in the right direction .
For people with so little resources and wealth , they seem to have an abundance of perseverance , tolerance , and wisdom .
The family in whose Casa Particular I stayed was more than I could have hoped for . My hosts made the freshest , most delicious breakfasts I ’ ve ever had . Incredibly helpful , the son , Alex , invited me along to fantastic bars and restaurants that I would never have found on my own . Mom and Dad were lovely and sincerely interested in me having a positive experience ; it was in itself a highlight of the trip .
Havana is compelling on so many levels , and also incredibly saddening . It deserves better than it ’ s gotten , as do it ’ s people . Tossed carelessly on stormy seas of political contests , economically strong-armed , and caught amidst the ebb and flow of powerful allies and neighbors . You can feel the resign to this state of affairs , a collective 50-year-long-sigh ; but also the response . Cubans keep going , applying their unique brand of Cuban ingenuity to getting by ( they ’ ve even invented words to reflect this ) while sustaining the complex values and culture that distinguish the island ’ s people .
For their part Cubans seem to be enjoying the new influx of people , trying to untangle the enigma that is America and Americans , cautiously seeking opportunity . Although they were always taught we were the enemy they were near-perfect hosts . In the end , this is what travel is about at its best . Havana did not disappoint .
I challenge you to experience Cuba with indifference ; I don ’ t think it ’ s possible ; Cuba inspires a passionate response . Havana won my heart .
THE DISTRICT - TAMPA ’ S URBAN DWELLING MAGAZINE 47