By Jonathan Byrne
Ducksoup – Outstanding in Soho
S
oho’s transformation into a social and culinary hub has
resulted in the unfortunate loss of venues that gave Soho
its thrill, intrigue and buzz. The story of The Windmill Theatre
is celebrated in the current West End show “Mrs Henderson
Presents” staring the energetic Tracie Bennett – the stage
production outshines the film and is definitely worth a visit for
Tracie Bennett’s performance alone. The benefit for Soho has
been the growth of some amazing food experiences. Situated
just two doors along, though no direct connection to, The
Groucho Club on Frith Street, Ducksoup is the place to
experience new, captivating tastes and smells, learn more
about both food, wine and enjoy the whole culinary
experience.
My first lesson was about a vermouth I’ve not encountered before,
Antica Formula, in our rather generous and powerful Negroni
cocktails. I immediately identified the dominant vanilla, date and
orange flavours of Antica Formula that produce a much smoother
vermouth than the better known brands. Our passionately
knowledgeable waitress explained that the formula also includes
mountain herbs and star anise.
Andrew, my closest and superbly loyal friend of 30 years (we met as
embryos) and I started with Sardinian Camone tomatoes with burnt
garlic, olive oil and salted cheese and braised lamb kiblets with
garlic, yohurt and mint. Swapping back and forth between both
plates it was difficult to choose a favourite between the two. The
fresh aroma of early season growth tomatoes, marbled both red
and green, was captivating. The sauce of tomato juices, olive oil
and pleasantly charred garlic invited lots of dipped bread. However
the beautifully spiced lamb won in the alliteration stakes which
Andrew captured as “rich, robust and Rajasthani”.
My only moan is the hand
written menu – it’s difficult to
read.
In Phyllis’ memory I chose a
I was intrigued by
homely rhubarb and almond
“La soif du mal”
tart that I devoured with gusto,
(The touch of evil)
a great combination of sweet
Roussillon blend of
clotted cream and frangipane
Muscadet, Macabeo
balanced with Yorkshire
and Grenache blanc
rhubarb. Even better though
which seems sweet
was Cornish Blue with pickled
and aromatic on
grapes, pasteurised cow’s milk,
entering the mouth
matured for three weeks and
but then almost
voted “Super Gold Award” at
stings with mineral
the 2015 World Cheese
dryness continuing
Awards in Cornwall. As he’d
our lessons in new
been trying different recipes
and exciting tastes.
over the past three days, the
Chef was unsure but thought
our batch of grapes were pickled in cider vinegar and star anise –
lifting the blue cheese to greater heights.
Ducksoup is small and crowded. The team make you feel at home
and exude enthusiasm. It’s outstanding!
Cocktails, three courses each, plenty of wine and service – £140.00
www.ducksoupsoho.co.uk
Tel: 020 7287 4599
Suggested by the Ducksoup team from an extensive lovingly
researched choice of natural and biodynamic wines, both by the
glass and bottle. Andrew enjoyed a creamy with light acidic and
mineral after taste Loire Valley Vin de France “La Boheme”
Muscadet. I was intrigued by “La soif du mal” (The touch of evil)
Roussillon blend of Muscadet, Macabeo and Grenache blanc which
seems sweet and aromatic on entering the mouth but then almost
stings with mineral dryness continuing our lessons in new and
exciting tastes. Ducksoup are enthusiastic about imparting their
passion and introduced us to an Orange Wine from Emilia Romagna
– Ageno, La Stoppa, 2010 –where the grape skins are left in
contact with the grape juice for only 30 days to pick up a
bronze/orange tone and build layers of complex and captivating
flavours.
The only dish we were not stunned and impressed by was Andrew’s
choice of pork rib chop with sinoni (skinny pak choi), capers and
lemon. While not the most exciting menu description, the rib was
enormous, extremely succulent and tasty. You would expect the
capers to be there to give an acidic balance to any potential
fattiness from the pork. Mixed with the sinoni, the capers just
tasted bitter and did not sit well with the rest of the meal. My
Grandmother, Phyllis, was a good Yorkshire home cook whose tried
and tested dishes included the most flavoursome rabbit not, in my
mind, equalled
until today’s braised rabbit leg with yellow courgettes, Datterini
tomatoes and mint. Like me, Phyllis would have needed to be
educated about Datterini tomatoes – mini plumb Italian – and
would have shared my delight in this lovely stew. The organic,
biodynamic blend of Grenache and Mourvedre grapes of a Tuscan
Unlitro red balanced and complimented both mains.
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