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By Jonathan Byrne
Kettner’s Reborn
and connects to a reception
desk for the Townhouse
bedrooms. The bar is much
extended with a vast display of
spirits and fortified wines. I’m
sure they have claimed more
space than was there before
and the restaurant extends
along the lower end of Greek
Street. The decor has a fresh
warm feeling of real luxury
enveloping you in style and
elegance. Well done with the
service and ambience.
The menu does not feature
anything wildly exciting but the
assurance of bistro style dishes
that have been tried and tested
for many years and will never
fail to please. After a late lunch
Richard was not famished so
chose a timbale salad of light
tasty Devon crab on celeriac
remoulade dressed with russet
apple followed by a dozen
Carlingford rock oysters. The
gusto with which he devoured
the dishes confirmed his
thoughts that all was delicious.
Kettner’s steak tartare.
E
scaping a rainy dark
early April Friday
evening, Richard and I snuck
into the recently reopened
Kettner’s Townhouse to find
a warm cocoon welcome and
a richer more luxurious
Kettner’s. Rules is the oldest
restaurant in London with
records back to 1840’s and
claims to the late 1790’s.
Kettner’s must come a close
second oldest founded in
1867.
Kettner’s, in the heart of
Victorian and Edwardian sordid
Soho, has a scandalous history.
Edward VII and Lillie Langtry
kept each other entertained at
Kettner’s and it’s reputed to
have been Oscar Wilde’s
favourite restaurant. I was first
introduced to Kettner’s in the
early 1980’s and continued to
enjoy the delights of the
Champagne Bar and main
Restaurant until it closed two
years ago. During this period it
still had charm although the
decor was faded, the menu not
always inspirational and the
service could be dismissive.
I tried Kettner’s steak tartare.
Sitting in the middle was a
clever artichoke cream which
looked like set egg white
supporting a golden yolk. The
finely chopped steak and
gherkins melded perfectly with
artichoke and egg for the
creamiest rich steak tartare I’ve
enjoyed in quite awhile. I was
The bar is much
extended with a vast
display of spirits
and fortified wines.
I’m sure they have
claimed more space
than was there
before and the
restaurant extends
along the lower end
of Greek Street. The
decor has a fresh
warm feeling of real
luxury enveloping
you in style and
elegance.
also correct to be tempted by
soft and silky poached Banham
chicken with tender vegetables
in a flavoursome broth. And a
third tick in the box for great
food. A French Chardonnay, Les
Templiers, from Cotes de
Thonge was a light inoffensive
wine balancing each of our
dishes.
We will certainly be returning
regularly to this inspired
interpretation of a classic.
Maybe the Champagne bar will
capture our imagination next
time.
Those inspired restaurateurs of
The Soho House Group have
reinvigorated the grand if tired
stalwart with an engaging and
smart new place to enjoy
Soho’s resurgence. It was early
evening on a Friday and the
website claimed no tables
available until after nine.
However we breezed in at
seven to be charmed by the
front of house staff who
appeared to genuinely want to
make us fe el welcome and find
somewhere for us to dine.
Tables in the main restaurant
were full but places were
cleared at the bar, covers set
for us and we were offered the
full menu. Once we had
ordered we were given a tour.
A dozen Carlingford rock oysters.
The circular Champagne bar
remains though the lounge
area beyond the bar now leads
down to basement cloakrooms
Visit The London & UK DatebooK on www.thedatebook.co.uk
Two courses and wine for two people £137.25 including a well
deserved tip. www.kettnerstownhouse.com
THE LONDON & UK DATEBOOK
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