The Datebook datebook_autumn2019_digital_ARTWORK | Page 21
barriques which adds layers of
spice and structure to intense
blackcurrant/cassis of the
Cabernet Sauvignon. Then
back out into the bright South
African sunlight to enjoy
sundowners and a braai with
more Cabernet Sauvignon!
Choosing the final blend of the
Chateau Veyry 2017 - great fun!
and Walker Bay. It is a wine trip
that has to be done.
Anyway, I digress … we’re
talking about red wines and
South Africa produces some of
the best. Talk about wines to
curl up and enjoy with a loved
one by the fire! My favourites
are generally Cabernet
Sauvignon, Shiraz and some
Pinotage. Pinotage is crossing
between Cinsaut and Pinot Noir
producing a wine that can be
characterised by red and black
fruit with leather, spice and
often chocolate. The problem is
that it has been responsible for
many of South Africa’s
cheapest, dullest and harshest
wines. It can, however, be
superb with delicious balance,
richness and flavour. There is a
big revolution in winemaking
happening in Swartland with
some stunning bush vine
Pinotage – look out for David &
Nadia Pinotage from Swartland
(as well as their Chenin
Blanc!).
For Cabernet Sauvignon then
Mellasat Farm in Paarl is the
place. Stephen Richardson
(who also makes a wonderful
White Pinotage!) has a block of
vines on a terroir that produces
magnificent Cabernet
Sauvignon. I’ve enjoyed many
visits here, playing like a kid in
a sweet shop in the barrel
room tasting young wines and
seeing what happens with
different oak barrels. In his
case he uses the finest French
From Spain then South Africa
and now to Bordeaux, which
many of you will know is a big
favourite of mine. In fact after I
finish writing this, I’m off to
Bordeaux for a few days for
tasting and maybe a meal or
two. I try and champion
Bordeaux because not only are
the wines perfect for
Autumn/Winter drinking but
because this iconic region is
not all about Cru Classé,
expensive wines and grand
chateaux. That accounts for a
tiny part of the Bordeaux story.
There are thousands of small
growers all across the region
making superb and affordable
wines, from the muscular
wines of the Médoc through to
the sumptuous, velvety wines
of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol
to the more everyday wines in
Entre-Deux-Mers. With lesser
known regions like Castillon,
Blaye and Fronsac all
producing magnificently
structured wines that offer
great value for money. It is an
extraordinary part of the world
and with a city, Bordeaux, that
has gone through a miraculous
transformation in recent years.
It’s a great destination for a
weekend away.
I’m going to focus on one wine
– Chateau Veyry. This is a tiny
estate in Castillon which is a
stone’s throw from Saint-
Emilion but on the same
limestone ridge that is home
to some of the greatest wines
– Ausone, Pavie, Gaffelière
and so on. A hundred years
ago the wines of Castillon
used to be as famous as its
illustrious neighbour but they
have been largely forgotten.
Not by me! Christian is an
artist, crafting a rich, full-
bodied Merlot/Cabernet Franc
that is also, somehow, elegant
and refined. I love his wines
and it is a visit I look forward
Richard Household.
The best wines are
remembered not
because of some
fancy tasting note
(‘richly perfumed with
lashings of pressed
plum, sweet spice
and finely textured
tannins’) but rather
where you were and
who you were with
when you enjoyed
the wines. That is
what makes them
special..
The ageing process.
to every time I go to Bordeaux.
I’ll be there this week!
I helped to make the final
blend of the 2017 sitting in
Michel Rolland’s laboratory in
Pomerol earlier this year. The
result is a wine that is layered,
complex with brooding dark
fruit flavours, ripe juicy and very
finely grained tannins. The wine
has an extraordinary texture
and ‘mouth-feel’ with a long
sumptuous finish. Just
wonderful! It is not expensive
and is the perfect example to
show that there is more to
Bordeaux than Cru Classé
wines that require a second
mortgage to buy!
By the way, if you find yourself
in Saint-Emilion looking for
somewhere to enjoy lunch then
drive a little way out to L’Atelier
de Candale in Saint-Laurent-
des-Combes. A magnificent
restaurant right in the middle of
the vineyards.
So there you have it. Some of
my favourite reds, with stories
to match, to help you enjoy
your winter wine drinking. I
managed to avoid telling you
the story of a small private
lunch for 4 of us in Chateau
Palmer. Another time!
Be brave, explore and happy
tasting!
Visit: www.bromptonwine.co.uk
The views are magnificent.
Visit The London & UK DatebooK on www.thedatebook.co.uk
E-mail: [email protected] Tel: 07801 579616
THE LONDON & UK DATEBOOK
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