The Datebook datebook_autumn2019_digital_ARTWORK | Page 14

By Jonathan Byrne
Le Vieux Comptoir, Vins Fins
& Delices de France
special atmosphere. They were
also confident that the food
would equally represent “Les
Delices de France”. Andrew
chose Parisienne Salad of
Chicory, Blue Cheese, Pears
and Walnuts beautifully
presented, light and a heavenly
blend of flavours. I opted for
Terrine de Campagne, two
generous thick slices of delight
that would make a superb
lunch choice alone. This was
accompanied by a tall
stoneware jar of home
preserved gherkins with long
wooden tongues to extract
them from their vinegar. By its
freshness, the warm crusty
bread must be made on site.
Terrine de Campagne.
A
fter a relaxed afternoon
chat putting the world to
rights, with my closest friend
Andrew, we discussed finding
somewhere new for dinner.
We’ve tried every restaurant
close to his flat in Little
Venice and several in
Marylebone Village, a midway
meeting point between both
our homes. Most are good
but we wanted somewhere
new to engage us.
Browsing options on a
restaurant booking app brought
up all the places we know and I
was about to give up scrolling
through when a new option
caught my eye – Le Vieux
Comptoir, Vins Fins & Delices
de France. Deciding we’d rather
check it out before making a
booking we headed to Moxon
Street just off Marylebone High
Street. The location on the site
of a an old pub, next to
Boeuf Bourguignon - 'Simply
served with a handful of small
roasted potatoes and a sprinkling
of parsley.'
12
THE LONDON & UK DATEBOOK
Paddington Street Gardens,
means it’s not a place you will
easily chance upon although
research informs me it’s been
here since 2013. Being a
bright summer day, we almost
did not go beyond the ground
floor wine shop into the cellar
restaurant. However by the end
of the evening were both very
pleased we had ventured down
the stairs.
Almost immediately we knew
we’d made a good choice. The
manager greeted us with
relaxed French charm, genuine
charm that shines through,
apologising that the only
available table was not the best
he could offer. It seemed
perfectly fine to us. Yes, every
other table and bar space was
filled with joyous people who
clearly knew they’ve found a
treasure. Even in a cellar
setting the noise was fun and
friendly, not raucous or
reverberating. A table of 10
next to us was celebrating and
enjoying a shared feast of
cured meats, olives, capers
and gherkins with an ingenious
wedge shaped Raclette grill
which continually melts the
exposed side of a half wheel of
cheese so you can scrape off
the delicious melted cheese
and pass it to the nextperson.
We will definitely try this
experience in the future.
Each person who served gave
us the same feeling of real
hospitality. They wanted us to
be there and to enjoy the
For main course I was deeply
tempted by, and shall enjoy
another time, the Hamburger
LVC of Confit Duck with Brie.
The twinkle in our waitress’ eye,
Gallic shrug of the shoulders
and sensual expression “The
Plat du Jour, Boeuf
Bourguignon, it is so good I
would ’ave it.” utterly convinced
us both! Another generous
soup bowl of meltingly tender
braised beef with all the hints
of bay, garlic, onion, root
vegetables and red wine to
create an outstanding stew.
Simply served with roast
potatoes and a sprinkling of
parsley, this was the pinnacle
Almost immediately we
knew we’d made a
good choice. The
manager greeted us
with relaxed French
charm, genuine charm
that shines through,
apologising that the
only available table
was not the best he
could offer.
of home cooked authentic
French food.
Of course the wines had to be
equally outstanding. Never
before have I been guided
through a wine list with such
genuine care that the wine
would match the food. I was
even directed away from a
more expensive wine because
“This St Emilion is just perfect
for the boeuf.” My glass of St
Emilion Crand Cru 2012 made
me feel richly loved. Andrew is
very particular about his white
wine but even he was charmed
by the meld of dry mineral and
refreshing melon excitement of
the Chenin Blanc in the
Chateau Langlois Samur Blanc.
Salad Parisienne.
£111 is an average London price for two courses, one bottle and
one glass for two people. In fact Andrew, tried to persuade me
not to report on this perfect find!
www.levieuxcomptoir.co.uk