ask a sommelier
What is the difference between Ripasso, Valpolicella, and Amarone?
— David Leibl
Dear David,
The truth is, these three wines are all variations on a theme. All are made from the same red grape varieties— Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara— which are grown in the Valpolicella region of Northeast Italy. Valpolicella— the basic, medium-bodied version of this blend— starts at $ 11.
The top level is Amarone. What makes Amarone special is that the grapes are picked in late fall and then dried on trays for an average of 120 days, until they shrivel. They lose moisture, but the sugar remains, resulting in a big, rich wine that is higher in alcohol. Amarones normally start around $ 35.
Ripasso is the style in between. The term“ ripasso” literally means“ to pass back over” in Italian. The wine is made by refermenting a basic Valpolicella on the skins left over from the production of Amarone. The process adds character and alcohol. Ripassos are sometimes called“ baby Amarones,” and start at around $ 17.
— Mike Muirhead
I like to keep a bottle of Sherry in the fridge for cooking. I heard that Sherry is already oxidized, so I don’ t have to worry about it going bad. Is this true? If not, how long can I keep it in my fridge?
— Audrey Waterman
Dear Audrey,
While Sherry is one of the most underappreciated and versatile wines out there, it is also one of the most confusing wine styles to understand. All real Sherry comes from an area in southwest Spain known as the“ Sherry Triangle.” These one-ofa-kind wines are made through a unique process that involves fortifying the wines with grape spirit. From there, things get confusing. The finest wines are nurtured to encourage the development of a special yeast known as“ flor.” The blanket of flor that develops on these wines protects them from the damaging effects of oxygen and contributes unique flavours to the wine. These wines will be labelled as Fino Sherry, and because they have been protected from oxygen during their development, their unique flavours will be destroyed quickly once exposed to the air. It is recommended that a Fino Sherry be consumed within a week of opening.
Wines not destined for the Fino style will enter a different aging regime, where they are allowed to mingle with the air and develop nutty, oxidized flavours. These wines will often be labelled as Oloroso and can last longer once open because of their previous exposure to air. I suggest consuming an Oloroso within two months of opening. Other forms of Sherry, such as Cream Sherry, Sweet Sherry, and Pedro Ximénez have much higher sugar content than the dry Fino and Oloroso styles and can hold up for months once opened.
“ Cooking Sherry” is a different matter altogether. This“ wine” is in fact not real Sherry and has had copious amounts of salt and preservatives added to it, in order to extend its shelf life. I suggest trading in your cooking“ Sherry” for a bottle of Oloroso.
Keeping the bottle in the fridge will extend its shelf life and I wouldn’ t be surprised if you found yourself sipping away on this delicious wine, even when you’ re not cooking!
— Andrea Eby
What is a great wine for a dessert party?— Janice Cournoyer
Dear Janice,
Dessert is always a challenge. You don’ t want to“ oversweet” the flavours, so you have to choose wisely, and with an open mind. For a dessert party, and particularly with chocolate cake, I would definitely choose the Torrontes Late Harvest by Michel Torino. This wine has the orange tones that match perfectly with chocolate. It is sweet, but not sugary, and has a kind of fresh acidity at the end that makes it the perfect dance partner for desserts!
If you are enjoying different styles of dessert( from lemon pie to lava cake, fresh and dried fruits to cheeses), you could pour a fun selection to beautifully pair with such a variety. For example, Simonsig Brut Rosé Sparkling is a delightfully fruity and dry Rosé. Also, you can’ t neglect Port: try the Quinta de Ventozelo. Another amazing selection is the Innocent Bystander Cordon Cut Viognier. This wine is so good, it is hard to find words that contain it! Finally, I would add a fizzy Moscato( preferably Italian) like Primo Amore— or if you are in the mood to splurge, try the Francesca Callegaro Fior D’ Arancio Colli Euganei.
— Flavia Fernandez Fabio
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