The Cellar Door Issue 14. Pinot Noir. | Page 13

ask a sommelier

What is the difference between Ripasso , Valpolicella , and Amarone ?
— David Leibl
Dear David ,
The truth is , these three wines are all variations on a theme . All are made from the same red grape varieties — Corvina , Rondinella , and Molinara — which are grown in the Valpolicella region of Northeast Italy . Valpolicella — the basic , medium-bodied version of this blend — starts at $ 11 .
The top level is Amarone . What makes Amarone special is that the grapes are picked in late fall and then dried on trays for an average of 120 days , until they shrivel . They lose moisture , but the sugar remains , resulting in a big , rich wine that is higher in alcohol . Amarones normally start around $ 35 .
Ripasso is the style in between . The term “ ripasso ” literally means “ to pass back over ” in Italian . The wine is made by refermenting a basic Valpolicella on the skins left over from the production of Amarone . The process adds character and alcohol . Ripassos are sometimes called “ baby Amarones ,” and start at around $ 17 .
— Mike Muirhead
I like to keep a bottle of Sherry in the fridge for cooking . I heard that Sherry is already oxidized , so I don ’ t have to worry about it going bad . Is this true ? If not , how long can I keep it in my fridge ?
— Audrey Waterman
Dear Audrey ,
While Sherry is one of the most underappreciated and versatile wines out there , it is also one of the most confusing wine styles to understand . All real Sherry comes from an area in southwest Spain known as the “ Sherry Triangle .” These one-ofa-kind wines are made through a unique process that involves fortifying the wines with grape spirit . From there , things get confusing . The finest wines are nurtured to encourage the development of a special yeast known as “ flor .” The blanket of flor that develops on these wines protects them from the damaging effects of oxygen and contributes unique flavours to the wine . These wines will be labelled as Fino Sherry , and because they have been protected from oxygen during their development , their unique flavours will be destroyed quickly once exposed to the air . It is recommended that a Fino Sherry be consumed within a week of opening .
Wines not destined for the Fino style will enter a different aging regime , where they are allowed to mingle with the air and develop nutty , oxidized flavours . These wines will often be labelled as Oloroso and can last longer once open because of their previous exposure to air . I suggest consuming an Oloroso within two months of opening . Other forms of Sherry , such as Cream Sherry , Sweet Sherry , and Pedro Ximénez have much higher sugar content than the dry Fino and Oloroso styles and can hold up for months once opened .
“ Cooking Sherry ” is a different matter altogether . This “ wine ” is in fact not real Sherry and has had copious amounts of salt and preservatives added to it , in order to extend its shelf life . I suggest trading in your cooking “ Sherry ” for a bottle of Oloroso .
Keeping the bottle in the fridge will extend its shelf life and I wouldn ’ t be surprised if you found yourself sipping away on this delicious wine , even when you ’ re not cooking !
— Andrea Eby
What is a great wine for a dessert party ? — Janice Cournoyer
Dear Janice ,
Dessert is always a challenge . You don ’ t want to “ oversweet ” the flavours , so you have to choose wisely , and with an open mind . For a dessert party , and particularly with chocolate cake , I would definitely choose the Torrontes Late Harvest by Michel Torino . This wine has the orange tones that match perfectly with chocolate . It is sweet , but not sugary , and has a kind of fresh acidity at the end that makes it the perfect dance partner for desserts !
If you are enjoying different styles of dessert ( from lemon pie to lava cake , fresh and dried fruits to cheeses ), you could pour a fun selection to beautifully pair with such a variety . For example , Simonsig Brut Rosé Sparkling is a delightfully fruity and dry Rosé . Also , you can ’ t neglect Port : try the Quinta de Ventozelo . Another amazing selection is the Innocent Bystander Cordon Cut Viognier . This wine is so good , it is hard to find words that contain it ! Finally , I would add a fizzy Moscato ( preferably Italian ) like Primo Amore — or if you are in the mood to splurge , try the Francesca Callegaro Fior D ’ Arancio Colli Euganei .
— Flavia Fernandez Fabio
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