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Laura and her father, Nicolás Catena( photo courtesy of Bodega Catena Zapata)
There is one other aspect to this: the mountains stop the rain from the Pacific side. In Mendoza, it is only green where there is irrigated land, and the rest of the place is desert and brush! That’ s how dry it is. What is good about the dryness is that we don’ t have pests. We do not have to apply pesticides. Viticulture is basically organic in Argentina. Some people get certified, some do not. It is something that costs extra money, but really, we farm everything sustainably.
SJ Malbec has a rich history in Bordeaux, which is its spiritual home, with Cahors. A lot of people think the Argentines have just invented it, and that it is the hottest thing coming out of Argentina. Can you enlighten us on that, and on what to expect in the future?
LC The first Malbec vine plantings were brought to Argentina in 1852. It was called l’ Uva Francesa, the French grape. In the nineteenth century, anybody who wanted to plant a good vineyard in Argentina would plant Malbec. One of these people was my great grandfather, Nicola Catena. To me, the success of Malbec in Argentina has to do with the climate. Michel Rolland said once that if there was ever a varietal that defined terroir, it was Malbec in Mendoza, because its adaptability to Mendoza is perfect. Sunlight really enhances aromatics, but grapes do not like extreme heat, so this highaltitude region, with lots of sunlight, poor soils, and cool temperatures, is perfect for Malbec. To me, Malbec found its place. On the other hand, I also enjoy Malbecs from France, and I love the connections with other people who are also making a business from this historic grape. It has a great pedigree.
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SJ Should we expect more Malbec from Argentina in the future?
LC Argentina is exporting a lot right now, but there are not a lot of new plantings going on. People are focused on quality, and making very profound wines. There is a focus on regionality, making different Malbecs from different regions. There are going to be new regions, like San Juan, La Rioja, and more regional definition. You are going to see some other varietals, red blends, and high-altitude Chardonnay, which is something unique and different. So I think you will see regionality, a lot of high-quality wines, but not a huge increase in volume.
SJ Last winter I absolutely floored a tasting group by selecting the Luca Malbec in a wine tasting. Can you tell us what drew you to produce wines under the Luca label?
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