gary’ s corner
By Gary Hewitt, Sommelier( ISG, CMS), CWE
“ Missionaries, migrants, and market reforms” are the three Ms needed for a New World wine region to achieve global presence, according to Mike Veseth in his new book Wine Wars. Argentina certainly fits the mould. Missionaries( along with conquistadors) first brought vines to South America from Spain. Migrants with winemaking know-how and a thirst for wine came in waves from Italy, Spain, and France. Market reforms overturned protectionist policy and generous subsidies that had created a dull domestic market full of“ cheap, strong, sweet wines” and ultimately created the conditions for a wine crisis in the 1970s and 80s. More than one third of all vineyards were grubbed up, as Argentine winemakers were forced to face global competition. The subsequent rise of Argentina’ s modern industry from the ashes of the fallen has been breathtaking in speed and scale.
A drive through the sprawling Mendoza wine region reveals dozens of modern wineries, many designed by the same architects, most of similar scale, and all built within the last 20 years. Much was made possible by foreign investors, many from the same countries as the original immigrants, who pumped fortunes into their projects. The payoff has been huge, and the monolithic success of Argentine Malbec on a global scale is undeniable.
On a recent trip to Argentina with my fellow Sommelier Mike Muirhead, we sought to go beyond Malbec to discover a greater diversity of wines. After all, the waves of immigrants brought a treasure trove of vine varieties, many of which have now been grown for generations by Argentine winemakers. Where are these wines now?
Early in our trip, while far south of Mendoza in the Rio Negro region
at Bodega Chacra, we discovered superb wines made from ungrafted Pinot Noir vines dating back to 1932 and 1955! Apparently, Pinot Noir once covered thousands of hectares for the production of domestic sparkling wine, but marketing logistics and the wine crisis resulted in massive grubbing up and neglect. Resurrection of these almost feral vines is the pet project of Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, perhaps better known for the production of his family wine, Sassicaia.
Back in Mendoza, we were tantalized by excellent examples of Bordeaux varietals, including Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc( at Pulenta and Melipal vineyards) and a dried-grape Amarone-style blend anagrammatically called Enamore( by Renancer). However, a real revelation came on the second-to-last day of the trip from an unexpected source: Zuccardi, a winery known in Canada for the sweetish über-selling brand Fuzion.
Zuccardi proved to be a winemaking campus with four complete but separate wineries, research facilities, and a fully equipped pilot plant for small-scale experimentation. Here, we tasted tank samples of obscure grape varieties sourced from around the world being evaluated for compatibility with the Mendoza terroir. Promising varieties move on to limited-production runs under the Innovacion label( Banville & Jones has ordered Innovacion Arinarnoa!). Next, we tasted a remarkable range of Zuccardi wines, including Bonarda, Sangiovese, and Tempranillo— at last, the immigrants’ grapes! To finish, a full range of traditional method sparkling wines drove home the message that diversity in Argentina is alive and well.
In many ways, the Argentine producers playing the global market represent a young industry capable of reliable, well-made wines. In the near future, expect continued dependence on Malbec, but with a refinement of styles and clarification of regional differences. However, I suggest being an early adapter, as the“ other” Argentine wines seek their way out into the wide world. Argentina’ s long-term success depends on diversity: history, geography, and modern talent can surely make it happen.
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Torrontes
Argentina’ s signature white grape variety, Torrontes, has a story similar to that of Malbec: European grape variety leaves home, travels across the Atlantic, and finds a more exciting life in the New World. Although planted widely throughout Argentina, the most refined wines come from the extreme high-altitude region of Salta. Generally, Torrontes gives dry, fresh, unoaked wines with intense floral and grapefruit to peachlike aromas that falsely suggest sweetness. Ideal for sipping or as an aperitif, Torrontes pairs well with fruity salads, cheeses, and Asian cuisine. Drink these wines in their exuberant youth.
I recommend:
AVE 2009 Premium Torrontes Cafayate Salta, Argentina $ 15.99
Telteca 2009 UMA Torrontes Mendoza, Argentina $ 9.99
Michel Torino 2009 Don David Reserve Torrontes Cafayate Salta, Argentina $ 13.99 www. banvilleandjones. com 31