a tale of two terroirs :
Malbec , from prince to pauper and back again
By Andrea Eby , Sommelier ( ISG ), CSW
A Malbec vineyard in Mendoza , Argentina ( photo by Mike Muirhead )
Once upon a time in a land far , far away , there lived a princely grape variety of great fame and renown . It was adored for the deep colour , robust tannins , and complexity that it contributed to red wines . At one time , some of the world ’ s finest wines depended on this variety to achieve their full potential . Dynasties were created and fortunes were decided based on its fame and flavour . What is the name of this mythical grape ? Would you believe Malbec ? Many people know of Malbec ’ s fame in Argentina but few are aware of its torrid and tumultuous past .
The Prince of Bordeaux
To learn about Malbec ’ s rise and fall , we must travel to Bordeaux , France ( the land , far far away ) and back in time to approximately 1855 . The top Bordeaux châteaux had recently been classified ( from First Growth through Fifth Growth ) in preparation for the upcoming Paris World Fair . The classifications were based on the market value of a château ’ s wines and a high ranking guaranteed an owner entry into the upper echelons of the wine world . Of the hundreds of estates in Bordeaux , only 52 were deemed worthy of this recognition and only four were singled out for the most prestigious First Growth classification . Malbec was an integral component of these iconic wines . With only one change in 150 years , the classification has remained largely static ; however , the wines have not . There was a time when over 60 per cent of Bordeaux vineyards included Malbec vines . Now Malbec is a rare interloper in Bordeaux blends . Here ’ s what happened .
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