behind the label: grupo pesquera
By Andrea Eby, Sommelier( ISG)
Condado de Haza 2007 Crianza Ribera del Duero DOCa $ 25.99 |
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Tinto Pesquera 2008 Crianza Ribera del Duero DOCa $ 28.99 |
Tinto Pesquera 2007 Reserva Ribera del Duero DOCa $ 42.99 |
Condado de Haza 2001 Alenza Gran Reserva Ribera del Duero DOCa $ 81.99 |
The Ribera del Duero region of Spain is an area steeped in history. For over 2,000 years, vineyards have graced the riverbanks of the Duero River, as it winds its way toward Portugal. By the dawn of the 20th century, however, quality wines were largely a thing of the past, and cheap, bulk wines prevailed. Wine lovers had forgotten about Ribera del Duero, or they had simply never heard of it in the first place. It took a visionary like Alejandro Fernández( a. k. a., the“ King of Tempranillo”) to almost single-handedly propel this region, more famous for its sugar beets than its wine, from the forgotten to the forefront of the wine world.
A self-made man, Alejandro Fernández made his fortune designing and manufacturing machinery for the booming local sugar beet industry. Few could fathom why, in 1972, when everyone else was busy ripping up vines to plant more profitable irrigated crops, he risked everything to invest in vineyards. Despite criticism, Fernández forged ahead with his dream to create a wine that would be different from all the others. Traditionally, the only internationally recognized wine style of Spain was from Rioja, a mellow wine that was completely aged before its release from the winery. It was his vision to craft a wine that would be dark and lush, with loads of ripe fruit and smoky oak, full of structure and tannin that would allow it to age in the bottle— the antithesis of Rioja. He took over his family’ s vineyard, complete with a wine press from the 1600s, which was used for vintages from 1972 through 1982. Adding steadily to his family’ s original vineyard holdings, the winery, Bodegas Alejandro Fernández, continues to grow and produces
several wines under the brand Grupo Pesquera, named for Alejandro’ s hometown.
Working strictly with Tempranillo, Fernández quietly began to make a name for himself and his wines. Any doubts that he may have harboured about the success of his venture were forever vanquished when influential American wine critic Robert Parker tasted the 1982 Pesquera Tinto, and lauded the wine as“ the Petrus of Spain.” Fernández proved that Ribera del Duero— previously known only for the historic( and expensive) Vega Sicilia wines— was a contender on the world stage. Overnight, the winery and the region went from relative obscurity to international fame, with people clamouring to get their hands on a bottle from Pesquera.
In 1992, there were only 70 wineries in Ribera del Duero. Now, in part due to the success of wines such as Pesquera, there are over 250. Not only has Alejandro Fernández catapulted the area to international fame, Spanish wine law was rewritten in 2008, granting Ribera del Duero the prestigious DOCa( Denominación de Origen Calificada) status. Reserved for Spain’ s most historic and high-quality wine regions, this designation confirms that Ribera del Duero has entered the big leagues.
Fame and glory have had little effect on Alejandro Fernández. Now in his 70s, he continues to craft stunning wines in this rugged and remote corner of Spain. Recognized and respected around the world, Alejandro Fernández exemplifies what is possible when determination and inspiration combine. Long live the King of Tempranillo!
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