test kitchen: the wines
CLOS DE LA ROILLETTE 2007 AC FLEURIE, BURGUNDY $ 29.99
Gary: This has a seriously spicy black pepper note, and firmer tannins than you would expect. Because it is traditionally made, it is higher intensity and more structured than you would think. Paired with the meal, it projects the brightness of the fruit. It is a perfectly good match, but perhaps a little too bright.
Karen: I am picking up cherry notes, with rich, darker fruits. I really like this wine by itself, even before pairing it with the meal. The wine gets warmer and warmer the more I taste it with the meal— it is bringing out the alcohol in the wine.
Darren: The stone fruit shows the terroir, and the spice on the finish goes on forever. This wine stands up to the food, but doesn’ t overpower it. The acidity in the wine works especially well with the mustard in the potatoes, though I also find that the wine warms and dries when paired with the food.
BOURGOGNE 2005 RONCEVIE DOMAINE ARLAUD, BURGUNDY $ 34.99
Gary: The Roncevie is still about fruit— cherry and raspberry— but it has some distinct violet floral perfumes. Even though this is a 2005, it is still very young, but forward and showing beautifully. It fits this meal seamlessly.
Karen: I am getting lovely aromas of dark fruit and candy. This wine flows with the meal. The butter and creaminess of the potatoes make it even smoother.
Darren: The acidity of this coolclimate, Old World wine carries its flavours in harmony with the meal. It freshens up the palate after every bite and leaves me wanting more food. The food in turn smoothes out the wine.
PAUL GARAUDET 2002 AC POMMARD, BURGUNDY $ 66.99
Gary: The age is apparent in this wine, with distinct bricking and a deep garnet and amber colour. There is some barnyard on the nose and a lively acidity. The fruit has transformed into dried fruit tones. The savoury quality of the food matches the savoury quality of the wine.
Karen: This a meaty wine with notes of leather and sour cherry. The nose gives a perceived sweetness, but the palate is perfect. This classic Burgundian meal fits just perfectly with this wine— they make sense together. The acidity and fruit stand up, and the follow through lingers.
Darren: This wine has some spicy orange peel notes on the nose. These elegant Burgundies always surprise me— this one has everything needed to be a perfect match to this meal. It plays with the food, yet holds back enough to allow the food to finish nicely.
Also try: McManis 2008 Pinot Noir, California – $ 21.99 • Le Clos Jordanne 2005 Village Reserve, Niagara Peninsula VQA – $ 30.00 • Argyle 2006 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon – $ 34.99 • Melville Estate 2007 Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, California – $ 52.99 • Domaine Naudin-Ferrand 2006 Orchis mascula, Bourgogne Hautes- Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy – $ 45.99.
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1 / 2 c. pearl onions 1 c. button mushrooms
Place diced bacon in a sauce pan with just enough water to cover. Slowly simmer until the fat starts to render out, water evaporates, and the bacon starts to brown and crisp. Remove most of the fat and sauté the pearl onions and button mushrooms on low heat. Add to braised beef.
Buttered Potato Purée 1lb Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 c. butter, melted Salt to taste Pommery mustard 1 / 4 c. flat leaf parsley
Cover potatoes with cold, salted water( add 10g salt per litre of water). Bring to a simmer and cook until fork tender. Once the potatoes are cooked, mash them thoroughly( I like to use a ricer.) Slowly incorporate the warm butter into the potatoes by mixing vigorously. Adjust the seasoning to taste and fold in the Pommery mustard and parsley just before serving. �
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