green cork
By: Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier( ISG), CSW
One morning last week, my seven year-old son came downstairs dressed and ready for school on time. That in itself is verging on a miracle, but it was not what made me stop and look twice. Max was dressed in a particularly interesting outfit, which included a pair of glasses we had bought at a costume store because they reminded him of the ones Simon from Alvin and the Chipmunks wears.“ Is that what you’ re wearing?” I asked.“ Of course, Mom. I look awesome,” was his reply. So in an effort to support his sense of individuality I took him to school and watched him wave goodbye with a huge, proud smile on his face.
When I picked him up that day he seemed a little dejected. It turned out that two little girls had stopped him in the hall and had said, in that special, elementary schoolgirl brand of sarcasm,“ Nice glasses, Max.” I explained to him that as long as he liked how he looked, it didn’ t matter what others thought. As long as he was true to his feelings and beliefs, he would grow up to be creative and innovative and this would make him a leader, not a follower.
That same evening, I sat down to write about biodynamic wine production. As I began my research, I found myself snickering, a little like the girls in the hall, at the seemingly strange practices of biodynamic producers. I decided to take a page from the lessons I am trying to teach my son and put my judgement aside in favour of an open mind. What I found intrigued me. Biodynamics is so much more than just über-organic— it is a complete philosophy that encompasses not only the soil and the vine but the energy surrounding and permeating the vineyard. The philosophies and practices are so vast and interesting that it could not all fit into just one article. In this intro, the first in a series introducing you to biodynamism, I explore how its proponents strive to harness the power of lunar cycles.
Dedicated biodynamic producers ascribe to a lunar calendar that dictates when certain practices are undertaken in the vineyard and winery. There are“ fruit and fire days,” which are meant for work on vines and bottling. On“ leaf water days,” the vines are to be left alone and the focus on the vineyard moves to peripheral operations such as removing cuttings, working on trellises and cleaning barrels.“ Root earth days” shift the focus back to the vine. These days are devoted to replacing damaged vines, working the soil, and applying biodynamic fertilizers.
And then there are the“ bad periods.” On these days, no work is to be done relating to the vine or the wine. The focus shifts to tasks such as burning cuttings or changing damaged wires and support stakes. The prescribed calendar days seemed odd but my initial snicker came from the widely-held belief that under a waxing moon, the sap of a vine rises. At these times, wines are racked and vineyards harvested. In periods of a waning moon, the sap of a vine descends and the vine shuts down. This is the time when replanting, trimming, de-suckering, green harvesting, and soil enhancement must be undertaken.
Maybe I am a cynic, but I wonder, could it really be true that following these practices helps to produce superior wines? Is the commitment to what is seemingly so strange going to improve quality? Are these producers making wines in a manner a little like my son’ s: undeterred by the nay-sayers in the belief that what they have to offer the world will, in the end, turn out to be exceptional. Though I am totally confident that will be true of my son, I think I will have to do a little more research where the wines are concerned. There is so much more to explore. �
Eco-friendly tags on Banville & Jones Wine Co. store shelves indicate wines from around the globe that are produced under four categories: sustainably produced, organic, biodynamic, and carbon neutral.
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