Photo by Ian McCausland gary ’ s corner
By Gary Hewitt , Sommelier ( ISG , CMS ), CWE
BURGUNDY : REMAINING RELEVANT A few years ago , I was very fortunate to attend a week-long celebration in the heart of Burgundy . Food was a constant . One grand meal comprised whole spit-roasted suckling pig , paella ( yes , even Burgundians cook ethnic food ), cheeses , breads , and an endless stream of Burgundian wines that magically appeared from the bags of young vignerons ( winemakers ). All was in balance , a Burgundy tableau of food , wine , and conviviality . Then I spied a rogue bottle . Its reputable Rhone Valley label sang to me with promise of opulent southern warmth and terroir-driven Syrah . The sip . The shock ! Overpowering , almost obscene . I usually enjoy Rhône wines , but a week of only Burgundian Pinot Noir , all elegance and balance , had rendered me unprepared . I quickly gulped a modest Bourgogne rouge to assuage the assault .
This episode reminded me of a scene from Jancis Robinson ’ s Wine Course video series : devious Jancis whips a bottle of Australian Chardonnay out of her voluminous bag to spring it on an unsuspecting Burgundian vigneron — in his own winery ! He tastes the wine , walks outside and expectorates . His only comment : “ Sad ,” while Jancis speculates that the wine is “ not even fit to spit in his cellar !” The wine exceeded the vigneron ’ s bounds of quality , bounds set by years , centuries even , of fine tuning wines to local conditions and tastes .
Our North American palate has been formed largely by exposure to wines with expressive fruit , high alcohol , low acidity , and soft tannins . We drink wines sans food , socially . In this context Burgundian wines can seem light even harsh and acidic , often craving food . But wines follow fashions and tastes change . Even now we are slowly edging away from the grapey , intense , almost sweet wines of recent rapture toward lighter wines with greater food-pairing potential . Some consumers will stick to the big wines — rightfully so !— while others will increasingly discover the food affinity of classically structured wines .
In a world dominated by international brands with no particular sense of place , the wines of Burgundy , created in small quantities by hands-on vignerons who grow the grapes , make the wine , and then market it , appeal to consumers who want to know where their food comes from and how it is made . A good wine atlas will show exact vineyard locations for domaine-bottled wines , and producer websites frequently proclaim sustainable / organic / biodynamic practices ( all widely practiced in Burgundy ) as badges of environmental responsibility .
We expect to pay more for craftsmanship , high quality , and rarity ; certainly as these attributes apply to art , automobiles , and food ( think caviar and truffles )— why not for wine ? It is the soul of Burgundy that is bottled , and for many wines , the depth of character is revealed only in time and by familiarity . Classic Burgundy is at once simple — essentially two grape varieties ( Pinot Noir and Chardonnay )— and complex ; it is bottled history , geography , geology , technology , and passion . Burgundy can be like an elusive classic recipe — risotto , crème caramel , Boeuf Bourguignon — seemingly simple but challenging to master . Is Burgundy relevant ? Yes , increasingly so , but it takes time , patience , and understanding . Funny , it seems other great things in life require the same . �
TOURING BURGUNDY A serious wine trip to Burgundy can be an engaging challenge : domaines are small and cellar doors are scarce . Appointments must be made , often en français , by email or phone . Even large négociant houses do not actively encourage visits , Pierre Andre and Bouchard Pere et Fils being notable exceptions . ( Micro-négociant Mischief and Mayhem advertise that their cellar door is open daily , but then again , they were established by an Australian and an Englishman .)
Burgundy ’ s tourism board provides lots of information , including an excellent , free Roadmap to the Wines of Burgundy that includes a list of visitor-friendly cellars ( www . burgundy-winestourism . fr ). However , even this may not lead you on your desired path if you have specific wine goals .
For a rewarding , in-depth wine visit , consider employing a local expert guide such as Anne Schussler of Oenalia ( www . Oenalia . com ). Anne ’ s lifetime among the vineyards and more than 20 years of professional oenological experience give her extensive knowledge of Burgundy ’ s terroir , winemaking , and producers . She tailors itineraries , wine tastings , and winery visits to individual interests and provides candid professional assessments . A few days in the company of Anne are worth weeks on your own .
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