behind the label : domaine naudin-ferrand
By Andrea Eby
Domaine Naudin-Ferrand Aligoté 2008 Traditionnel AC Bourgonne , France $ 18.99
Domaine Naudin-Ferrand 2005 Orchis mascula AC Hautes-Côtes de Beaune , France $ 45.99
Domaine Naudin-Ferrand 2005 Echézeaux Grand Cru , France $ 159.99
Claire Naudin has ruffled more than a few feathers since she assumed control of her family estate , Domaine Naudin-Ferrand , just over 16 years ago . In fact , one writer has compared her to Annie Oakley , toppling the old boys club of Burgundy with her visionary approach and determination . What is all the fuss about ?
The Naudin family traces its Burgundian roots back to the early 1500s . Over the centuries , through hard work and fortuitous marriage , the family amassed a collection of beautiful Pinot Noir , Chardonnay , and Aligoté vineyards in some of Burgundy ’ s most prestigious areas . Since assuming control of the Domaine in 1994 , Claire has been courageous in the direction she has chosen to lead the winery . She has refused to accept the status quo and has worked tirelessly to produce wines that are respectful of their environment and provide the ultimate expression of the vineyard on which they were grown . This sustainable ideology has resulted in healthy vineyards , which only require the occasional use of carefully selected chemicals in times of need .
In the winery , her philosophy continues to be applied , where Claire sees herself as a caretaker rather than a winemaker . She is simply there to assist the wine in achieving its maximum natural expression . Rigorous hand-sorting of grapes means that very little sulphur needs to be added during fermentation . She uses no added yeasts , enzymes , or tannins , which she feels are legal “ tricks ” employed by too many winemakers to cover up faults that result because of inferior grapes . Even the corks are of exceptional quality and have had no chemical treatment . As a result of her non-interventionist techniques , Claire ’ s wines often exhibit lower alcohol levels and are of a less extracted style than those of her contemporaries . She believes that her wines were made as nature intended them , a true reflection of the vintage and the land . Coincidentally , these lower-alcohol , less-extracted wines make perfect companions to food . By their very nature , they allow both the food and the wine to play starring roles .
Claire ’ s wines are now available in all of the most progressive wine shops of Paris , and Winnipeg , where educated consumers are seeking wines that are authentic and provide a real reflection of terrior . Domaine Naudin-Ferrand ’ s Orchus mascula , the wine that earned her the Annie Oakley comparison , is the ultimate example of this trend . Burgundian wines are traditionally named after the historic vineyard from which they originate ; never before had someone dared to name a wine after a flower . In fact , the authorities insisted that the wine be destroyed , simply because it was labelled with an unrecognized vineyard and did not taste like “ typical ” Pinot from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune . Claire Naudine refused and a war of wills began , a war that finally ended with authorities backing down and issuing an official stamp of acceptance for the wine .
Domaine Naudin-Ferrand produces beautiful Aligote , Chardonnay and Pinot Noir-based wines that are handmade and “ boutique ” in every sense of the word . Even more importantly , the wines offer you , the consumer , a glimpse of the land on which the grapes were grown and the vintage that brought them to fruition . If you are ready to transport yourself to Burgundy , open one of Claire Naudin ’ s wines and enjoy the trip , even if it only lasts until the bottle is empty . �
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