The Cellar Door Issue 04. The Napa Valley. | Page 29

Harlan Estate has received near-perfect scores from top journalists and is touted as one of the top Cabernet Sauvignons in the world . Another example is Ornellaia who makes Massetto , a Merlot from Tuscany that fetches upwards of $ 350 retail , if you can find it . A third is Casa Lapostolle , a Chilean winery where Michel has consulted for years : they just won No . 1 Wine of the Year from Wine Spectator magazine for their flagship wine , Clos Apalta . The impressive list goes on and on . In Robert Parker ’ s Top Wines , Michel is the consultant for 22 of the wineries listed with top scores between 96 and 100 points . No other enologist has more than one wine on the list ; he has 22 .
In addition to his extensive consulting business , Rolland owns five wine properties in Bordeaux ( Château Fontenil , Le Bon Pasteur , Bertineau St . -Vincent , Rolland-Maillet , and La Grande Clotte ), two in Argentina ( Val de Flores and Yacochuya ), two in South Africa ( Remhoogte and Bonne Nouvelle ) and one in Spain ( Campo Eliseo ). It seems that his high profile clients get so much attention that most of his own wines — Château Le Bon Pasteur ( Pomerol ) and Fontenil ( Fronsac ) excepted — are like well-kept secrets !
At Tolaini Estate , I have watched Michel blend from over 200 barrel samples . He quickly but carefully tastes each sample , noting its special characteristics before deciding what combination , in what quantities , best creates the final blend . This is a prodigious exercise in concentration and judgment !
As we wind down our conversation , Michel tells me the story of how he met my father and came to work for Tolaini Estates . “ At a chance meeting in New York , I remember your father introduced himself and asked me , ‘ Who do you work with in Italy ?’ I said , ‘ I work for Ornellaia ’ [ undoubtedly Italy ’ s top wine producer ]. Your father , looking rather sad , replied , ‘ Oh that is too bad . . . ’ I was puzzled by this answer and said , ‘ Why ?’ Pierluigi then said , ‘ If you worked for me , I could make you famous .’” Michel and I both erupt in laughter and he says , “ I understood that this man is crazy and I like that !”
Sitting with Michel for this interview , I can attest to the fact that his charm is one of his most endearing qualities . Michel is full of laughter . As much as he tries to underscore his accomplishments with his modest wit , he is an incredibly talented enologist with a palate that is nothing less than a gift from God . �
If you would like to sample some of Michel Rolland ’ s wines , ask the Banville & Jones wine experts for any of the following , currently in stock :
Château Fontenil , 2000 – 2004 , Bordeaux – $ 58.99 –$ 75.99 Château Le Bon Pasteur , 2001 , Bordeaux – $ 163.99 Clos de los Siete , 2007 , Argentina – $ 26.41 Casa Lapostolle , 2006 Clos Apalta , Chile – $ 128.99 Château Troplong Mondot , 2007 , Saint-Émilion – $ 99.99 Tolaini Estate , 2005 – 2006 , Tuscany $ 29.99 – $ 139.99 Tenuta dell ’ Ornellaia , 2003 – 2005 , Tuscany – $ 169.99 – $ 248.99 Harlan Estate , 2005 , Napa Valley – $ 841.99 Quintessa , 2005-2008 , Napa Valley – $ 61.99 – $ 219.99 Bodegas Catena Zapata , 2003 , Argentina – $ 114.99