The Cellar Door Issue 03. Niagara\'s Wine Country | Page 27

The prize raised the profile of Canada’ s fledgling wine industry, and we have continued to improve our standing.
The variety of winery philosophies at work in Niagara offers a variety of choices for consumers. The presence of world-class winemakers gives us a mix of recognizable names and new stars. Quality ventures such as Stratus and Tawse are both leaders and examples of the potential of Niagara as a wine centre. As the Canadian wine industry continues to define its international identity, the array of quality wines produced gives us all something to celebrate and enjoy. �
UP AND COMING NIAGARA STYLES
A snapshot of Niagara wines to look for, beyond quality cool-climate red and white table wines:
Icewine: Niagara Icewine, whether from Riesling or Vidal, or from red varieties such as Cabernet Franc or others, will continue to be a darling on the world stage. Try: Vineland 2006 Vidal Icewine, Niagara Peninsula VQA – $ 56.99
Tawse Winery
The second tier wines are more mischievous blends, under the Wildass label. Blending a number of grape varieties is an Old World concept; these blends have a modern elegance, complexity, and food-friendliness that show the best of Niagara’ s cool climate.
Winemaking energy at Stratus is focused on quality. Fruit is hand-harvested and hand-sorted. The juice is handled with kid gloves: there is no pumping of juice or finished wine. When they need to move the wine up a level, the wine takes the elevator and the people take the stairs.
Like fine Bordeaux blends, the Stratus White and Red can be enjoyed in their youth, but will reward some cellaring time with complexity, balance, and length. It is the test of time that really builds reputation, observes Janke.
But the reputation of Niagara is not built only on small garagiste wineries such as Stratus and Tawse, she adds.“ It is good to have big companies that produce a good range of wines in the region.” In fact, it was producers such as Inniskillin that led the way: at the prestigious world wine show Vinexpo in 1991, an Icewine by Inniskillin visionary Donald Ziraldo won the Grand Prix d’ Honneur.
Sparkling: With a climate that easily produces good fruit with high acidity, Niagara can offer sparkling wines of quality. Quality sparkling wine does not, however, come cheap: the traditional method used by the best sparkling producers requires special equipment and lots of storage for bottles as the sparkle develops. A number of producers already offer interesting bubbly, and other small growers and larger producers are looking to sparkling wines to add to their portfolio. Try: Cave Spring 2005 Brut Traditional Method, Niagara Escarpment VQA – $ 43.99
Dried Grape Wine: Inspired by the venerable Italian Amarone, dried grape wines are produced from grapes that are placed on racks to raisin slightly. The drying develops a concentration of flavours and sugars, giving the finished wine weight, complexity, and power. You’ ll have to travel to Niagara to find this emerging variety! www. banvilleandjones. com 27