test kitchen: the wines
ILLUMINATI 2006 RIPAROSSO MONTEPULCIANO D’ ABRUZZO DOC, ITALY, $ 15.99
Sylvia: There is a really honest regional expression to this savoury wine. The weight and acidity stand up beautifully to the earthiness of the beans and the intensity of the sundried tomatoes and funky fennel. It shows that you don’ t need a $ 50 bottle of wine to go with this rich meal.
Mike: This wine has an earthiness and herbaciousness and a nice mouth feel. It has enough acidity to hold up well to the meal, and is a great balance to the bean dish. This is a great mix with the pork as well. It’ s very versatile.
Gary: This wine pulls together the herbs in the meal. It is not singing on its own, but is a fine compliment to the ingredients. This is not a structured wine and would fit well if you plate the meal rustically and take big mouthfuls with each sip.
Also try: Laurent Miquel 2006 Syrah / Grenache Vin de Pays d’ Oc, France, $ 18.99
TOLAINI 2004 AL PASSO TOSCANA IGT, ITALY $ 29.99
Sylvia: This is the kind of wine you have a conversation about, not over. The tannin presence is clear and intense on the palate— it is much more structured than the Riparosso. The care and skill that went into this wine is obvious and it tastes great with the beans and fennel.
Mike: The tannin structure in this wine gives it a fuller mouth feel on the mid-palate. It is great on its own, and really stands up to the meal. This is a great match for the pork especially.
Gary: This is a more elaborate, structured wine that is lovely with the meal. The freshness of the fruit really stands out. There is an intensity and richness to it, but it does not come across jammy with the meal. The oak aging complements the meat well.
Also try: Ventisquero 2006 Grey Carménère Maipo Valley, Chile, $ 24.99
CASTELLO DI QUERCETO 2003 CIGNALE COLLI DELLA TOSCANA CENTRALE IGT, ITALY, $ 98.99
Sylvia: This is a real treat. This wine meets the fennel like hand in glove to create something that is better than the pieces are separately. It also smoothes out the beans beautifully. Everyone should treat themselves to the combo of this wine and meal.
Mike: [ stunned silence ] This is so good I can’ t speak. It’ s not screaming truffle, rather it combines well with the truffle oil and meat, and works perfectly with the beans. Wow!
Gary: This is definitely not a wine anyone would send back! It does need about an hour decanted to truly express itself. The earthiness of the wine comes alive with the truffle oil and the richness of the pork. This works well with the dish, but I would age it two years longer in order for its true expression to develop.
Also try: Hacienda Monasterio 2003 Ribera del Duero DO, Spain, $ 73.99
Continued from page 47
grated Pecorino cheese. Bake at 375˚F about 30 minutes until golden brown.
Roasted fennel and cipollini onions 3 fennel bulbs 6 cipollini onions 15g / 1tbsp fresh basil, chopped 15g / 1 tbsp fresh mint, chopped 30ml / 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to taste
Slice the cipollini lengthwise and the fennel into even wedges. Toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Lay onions and fennel on a baking sheet, and roast at 425˚F for 30 – 40 minutes until tender and caramelized. Finish with a good quality Tuscan extra virgin olive oil and chopped basil and mint.
Join Chef Joel Lamoureux at Banville & Jones on May 21 for Test Kitchen Encore— watch him re-create this dish and sample the wine pairings for yourself( see page 44 for more details). � www. banvilleandjones. com 49