test kitchen : the wines
ILLUMINATI 2006 RIPAROSSO MONTEPULCIANO D ’ ABRUZZO DOC , ITALY , $ 15.99
Sylvia : There is a really honest regional expression to this savoury wine . The weight and acidity stand up beautifully to the earthiness of the beans and the intensity of the sundried tomatoes and funky fennel . It shows that you don ’ t need a $ 50 bottle of wine to go with this rich meal .
Mike : This wine has an earthiness and herbaciousness and a nice mouth feel . It has enough acidity to hold up well to the meal , and is a great balance to the bean dish . This is a great mix with the pork as well . It ’ s very versatile .
Gary : This wine pulls together the herbs in the meal . It is not singing on its own , but is a fine compliment to the ingredients . This is not a structured wine and would fit well if you plate the meal rustically and take big mouthfuls with each sip .
Also try : Laurent Miquel 2006 Syrah / Grenache Vin de Pays d ’ Oc , France , $ 18.99
TOLAINI 2004 AL PASSO TOSCANA IGT , ITALY $ 29.99
Sylvia : This is the kind of wine you have a conversation about , not over . The tannin presence is clear and intense on the palate — it is much more structured than the Riparosso . The care and skill that went into this wine is obvious and it tastes great with the beans and fennel .
Mike : The tannin structure in this wine gives it a fuller mouth feel on the mid-palate . It is great on its own , and really stands up to the meal . This is a great match for the pork especially .
Gary : This is a more elaborate , structured wine that is lovely with the meal . The freshness of the fruit really stands out . There is an intensity and richness to it , but it does not come across jammy with the meal . The oak aging complements the meat well .
Also try : Ventisquero 2006 Grey Carménère Maipo Valley , Chile , $ 24.99
CASTELLO DI QUERCETO 2003 CIGNALE COLLI DELLA TOSCANA CENTRALE IGT , ITALY , $ 98.99
Sylvia : This is a real treat . This wine meets the fennel like hand in glove to create something that is better than the pieces are separately . It also smoothes out the beans beautifully . Everyone should treat themselves to the combo of this wine and meal .
Mike : [ stunned silence ] This is so good I can ’ t speak . It ’ s not screaming truffle , rather it combines well with the truffle oil and meat , and works perfectly with the beans . Wow !
Gary : This is definitely not a wine anyone would send back ! It does need about an hour decanted to truly express itself . The earthiness of the wine comes alive with the truffle oil and the richness of the pork . This works well with the dish , but I would age it two years longer in order for its true expression to develop .
Also try : Hacienda Monasterio 2003 Ribera del Duero DO , Spain , $ 73.99
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grated Pecorino cheese . Bake at 375˚F about 30 minutes until golden brown .
Roasted fennel and cipollini onions 3 fennel bulbs 6 cipollini onions 15g / 1tbsp fresh basil , chopped 15g / 1 tbsp fresh mint , chopped 30ml / 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to taste
Slice the cipollini lengthwise and the fennel into even wedges . Toss with olive oil , salt , and pepper . Lay onions and fennel on a baking sheet , and roast at 425˚F for 30 – 40 minutes until tender and caramelized . Finish with a good quality Tuscan extra virgin olive oil and chopped basil and mint .
Join Chef Joel Lamoureux at Banville & Jones on May 21 for Test Kitchen Encore — watch him re-create this dish and sample the wine pairings for yourself ( see page 44 for more details ). � www . banvilleandjones . com 49