green cork
By Saralyn Mehta , Sommelier ( ISG ), CSW
When I was growing up , my mother told me that the label isn ’ t everything , and that every generation ’ s bright new ideas stem from the bright new ideas of those who came before them . Naturally , I assumed she was trying to talk me out of buying my Calvin Kleins , and trying to co-opt the amazing new ideas that my generation was inventing . But it seems that she might have been onto something .
Now that I am older , I am more apt to listen to my mother , and , after fielding several requests from customers about our stock of organic wines , I began to scour the store shelves for wine labels indicating organic processes . What I found was curious : it is significantly easier to find an organic label on wines from the New World ( everywhere but Europe ) than on those from the Old World ( Europe ).
Based on this evidence , it would stand to reason that more organic wines come from the New World . This , in fact , is not the case . It ’ s not all in the label . A new generation of wine drinkers is looking for proof of organic certification , while historic European winemakers have modestly practiced organic production for generations — and they are ahead of us still .
This is when I gained a new perspective on organic farming in the Old World : organic wine production in much of France is the rule rather than the exception . Respect for what the land provides the wine is paramount , so much so that they have given the effect of the soil on wine a name : terroir . Organic methods are so prevalent , that very few producers feel the need to have their status proven by a governing body .
Therefore , certification for organic farming is not sought , and as a result , the word organic cannot appear on the wine ’ s label .
Can we expand this knowledge of France ’ s inherently organic wine production methods to the rest of the Old World ? Indeed , we can . In 2008 , Italy was named the European and world leader for the production of organic wines by the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements ( IFOAM ). According to IFOAM , there are 80,000 hectares of land worldwide dedicated to organic wine production . The surprise : 34,000 of those are found in Italy !
France comes in second with 19,000 , then Spain with 16,000 and Germany with 2,800 hectares .
I was shocked to discover that the Old World was responsible for nearly 90 per cent of the world ’ s organic wine production : Bravissimo ! I am duly impressed with the New World ’ s commitment to the ongoing expansion of its organic production . The New World , particularly producers in
Australia and California , have done a brilliant job marketing organic wines , bringing them to the forefront of an ever-growing base of healthy and environmentally-conscious consumers .
Like any self-respecting daughter , I am mortified to admit that my mother was right — again . It ’ s not all in the label , and even though a new generation of wine drinkers is looking for organic certification , the winemakers who have been growing for centuries in Europe are way ahead of them ! �
These wineries practice biodynamic viticulture ( one step beyond organic ) but do not indicate “ organic ” on their labels :
Colle Dei Venti 2004 Tufo Blu Monferrato Rosso DOC , Italy In all of Ornella Cordara ’ s varietals you see Old World tradition blended with a modern sensibility . They are all structured wines with guts and glory : no shyness here ! A blast of black fruit balanced with spice and dried wild flower notes make this wine a perfect match to grilled or roasted meats . – $ 19.99
Alain Brumont 2005 Les Jardins de Bouscassé Pacherenc du Vic Bilh , France When I fell in love with this wine I had to go to my favourite reference book to find out what grapes made up Pacherenc Du Vic Bilh : a blend of local grape varieties Courbu , Petit Mensang , Arrufiac and an allowable smattering of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc . This wine is round and weighty with gorgeous floral notes and elegant layers of peach , pear , and apricots . – $ 23.99
Joseph Phelps 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon , Napa Valley , California I have loved Joseph Phelps wines ever since my first extraordinary adventure to the Napa Valley . This one has rich , bold cherry and currants layered in caramel and cream . It is powerful yet elegant and is sure to please even the fussiest palette . – $ 85.99
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