green cork
By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier( ISG), CSW
When I was growing up, my mother told me that the label isn’ t everything, and that every generation’ s bright new ideas stem from the bright new ideas of those who came before them. Naturally, I assumed she was trying to talk me out of buying my Calvin Kleins, and trying to co-opt the amazing new ideas that my generation was inventing. But it seems that she might have been onto something.
Now that I am older, I am more apt to listen to my mother, and, after fielding several requests from customers about our stock of organic wines, I began to scour the store shelves for wine labels indicating organic processes. What I found was curious: it is significantly easier to find an organic label on wines from the New World( everywhere but Europe) than on those from the Old World( Europe).
Based on this evidence, it would stand to reason that more organic wines come from the New World. This, in fact, is not the case. It’ s not all in the label. A new generation of wine drinkers is looking for proof of organic certification, while historic European winemakers have modestly practiced organic production for generations— and they are ahead of us still.
This is when I gained a new perspective on organic farming in the Old World: organic wine production in much of France is the rule rather than the exception. Respect for what the land provides the wine is paramount, so much so that they have given the effect of the soil on wine a name: terroir. Organic methods are so prevalent, that very few producers feel the need to have their status proven by a governing body.
Therefore, certification for organic farming is not sought, and as a result, the word organic cannot appear on the wine’ s label.
Can we expand this knowledge of France’ s inherently organic wine production methods to the rest of the Old World? Indeed, we can. In 2008, Italy was named the European and world leader for the production of organic wines by the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements( IFOAM). According to IFOAM, there are 80,000 hectares of land worldwide dedicated to organic wine production. The surprise: 34,000 of those are found in Italy!
France comes in second with 19,000, then Spain with 16,000 and Germany with 2,800 hectares.
I was shocked to discover that the Old World was responsible for nearly 90 per cent of the world’ s organic wine production: Bravissimo! I am duly impressed with the New World’ s commitment to the ongoing expansion of its organic production. The New World, particularly producers in
Australia and California, have done a brilliant job marketing organic wines, bringing them to the forefront of an ever-growing base of healthy and environmentally-conscious consumers.
Like any self-respecting daughter, I am mortified to admit that my mother was right— again. It’ s not all in the label, and even though a new generation of wine drinkers is looking for organic certification, the winemakers who have been growing for centuries in Europe are way ahead of them! �
These wineries practice biodynamic viticulture( one step beyond organic) but do not indicate“ organic” on their labels:
Colle Dei Venti 2004 Tufo Blu Monferrato Rosso DOC, Italy In all of Ornella Cordara’ s varietals you see Old World tradition blended with a modern sensibility. They are all structured wines with guts and glory: no shyness here! A blast of black fruit balanced with spice and dried wild flower notes make this wine a perfect match to grilled or roasted meats. – $ 19.99
Alain Brumont 2005 Les Jardins de Bouscassé Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, France When I fell in love with this wine I had to go to my favourite reference book to find out what grapes made up Pacherenc Du Vic Bilh: a blend of local grape varieties Courbu, Petit Mensang, Arrufiac and an allowable smattering of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. This wine is round and weighty with gorgeous floral notes and elegant layers of peach, pear, and apricots. – $ 23.99
Joseph Phelps 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California I have loved Joseph Phelps wines ever since my first extraordinary adventure to the Napa Valley. This one has rich, bold cherry and currants layered in caramel and cream. It is powerful yet elegant and is sure to please even the fussiest palette. – $ 85.99
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