THE LAND OF WINE
Photo by Ian McCausland
By Gary Hewitt, Sommelier( ISG, CMS), CWE gary’ s corner
Three thousand years old( at least!) and still relevant: a remarkable achievement for an industry considered a cacophony rather than a finely tuned instrument. Yet the bewildering abundance of Italian wines( with more than 500 designated wine regions!) charms us into perpetual curiosity.
That it should be so reflects history. Discounting the Roman Empire, Italian history sews a patchwork of competing city-states and regions, each fiercely independent. As a result, we think romantically of diverse Italian wines with deep historic roots and centuries-old local grape varieties. We have an image of the old … but the reality is new. Modern Italy, sewn together into a cohesive whole in the 20th century, produces international-calibre wines in modern facilities, sometimes using grape varieties and processes freely adopted from elsewhere.
How do we stitch together the divergent views? We can start with the introduction of national wine laws in the early 1960s. The DOC( Denominacion Origin Controllata) laws enshrined existing grape varieties and best-practice processes in each classified zone. In effect, DOC locked in tradition and inhibited modernization by denying experimentation with either new varieties or processes. DOC stands for tradition.
Did this stop the creative imagination of the nation that builds Ferrari cars, fashions Gucci, or views auto commuting as competitive sport? No! The first challenge to tradition emerged in Tuscany in the mid-1970s when Mario Incisa della Rochetta, bitten by the Bordeaux-bug, produced a wine called Sassicaia. He used an intruder grape variety, Cabernet Sauvignon, and aged his wine in small French barriques( barrels). Et voila, an Italian controversy: denied DOC status, Sassicaia could only be a lowly Vino Tavola( Table Wine). Yet, it rose to cult status and commanded a royal price envied by others. Not surprisingly, other expensive Vino Tavola soon appeared and Super Tuscan wines were born.
Re-enter Italian ingenuity: with the passing of Goria’ s Law in 1992, the category Indicazione Geografica Tipica( IGT) came into being. Freed of the DOC restrictions, the industry immediately flourished, bringing forth wines from new grapes and new methods of production. Everyone emerged a winner: consumers gained a whole category of friendly international-style wines, most often at affordable prices; producers were liberated to pursue modernization and profits; and the image of Italian wines was rejuvenated. IGT stands for modernization.
Look for the terms DOC / DOCG on labels. Although not a perfect guideline, these terms are clues to the style of the wine. If you are choosing a wine for a traditional Italian dish, choose a DOC / DOCG wine, especially one from the same region as the dish. If you are matching to a modern or international dish, you may be more inclined to an IGT wine.
Italian wines: something old and something new? Absolutely! Italy preserves our romantic notions and satisfies modern sensibilities while enticing us with a coolness factor, maintaining food relevance, and attracting us with beguiling charm. �
Perhaps Tuscany best illustrates the two faces of Italian wine. Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino embrace tradition with tightly controlled options for grape varieties( primarily Sangiovese), vineyard techniques, and winemaking regimens; whereas, the coastal regions of Bolgheri and Maremma serve up a lively selection of internationally-inspired wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah frequently aged in barriques.
Sicily has grown into a dynamic supplier of wines based on international varieties such as Syrah and Chardonnay, but has also elevated local grape varieties such as Nero d’ Avola to international attention to create modern classics.
Veneto, the traditional home of light, quaffable Valpolicella, has witnessed the re-emergence of Ripasso wines and new internationally-inspired Rosso Veronese.
Campania has resurrected almost extinct varieties famous in Roman times( Falanghina, Fiano), using modern white wine methods to create delicious, round wines unique in the wine world.
Apulia aggressively competes in the modern international market with cleanly-made traditional varietal wines based on Primitivo and Negroamaro, varieties that traditionally produce dry earthy wines with dried cherry and leather character.
The regions of Venezia Giulia- Friulano and Trentino-Alto Adige create copious amounts of ultrafresh white wines based on a wide array of traditional and international grape varieties, but they are perhaps best known for gulpable Pinot Grigio.
The central Italian regions of Abbruzzi and Marche offer lovely alternatives to their more westerly neighbour, Tuscany. They offer fresh, medium-weight reds based on the grape Montepulciano and fresh, lively whites based on Verdicchio.
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