THE LAND OF WINE
Photo by Ian McCausland
By Gary Hewitt , Sommelier ( ISG , CMS ), CWE gary ’ s corner
Three thousand years old ( at least !) and still relevant : a remarkable achievement for an industry considered a cacophony rather than a finely tuned instrument . Yet the bewildering abundance of Italian wines ( with more than 500 designated wine regions !) charms us into perpetual curiosity .
That it should be so reflects history . Discounting the Roman Empire , Italian history sews a patchwork of competing city-states and regions , each fiercely independent . As a result , we think romantically of diverse Italian wines with deep historic roots and centuries-old local grape varieties . We have an image of the old … but the reality is new . Modern Italy , sewn together into a cohesive whole in the 20th century , produces international-calibre wines in modern facilities , sometimes using grape varieties and processes freely adopted from elsewhere .
How do we stitch together the divergent views ? We can start with the introduction of national wine laws in the early 1960s . The DOC ( Denominacion Origin Controllata ) laws enshrined existing grape varieties and best-practice processes in each classified zone . In effect , DOC locked in tradition and inhibited modernization by denying experimentation with either new varieties or processes . DOC stands for tradition .
Did this stop the creative imagination of the nation that builds Ferrari cars , fashions Gucci , or views auto commuting as competitive sport ? No ! The first challenge to tradition emerged in Tuscany in the mid-1970s when Mario Incisa della Rochetta , bitten by the Bordeaux-bug , produced a wine called Sassicaia . He used an intruder grape variety , Cabernet Sauvignon , and aged his wine in small French barriques ( barrels ). Et voila , an Italian controversy : denied DOC status , Sassicaia could only be a lowly Vino Tavola ( Table Wine ). Yet , it rose to cult status and commanded a royal price envied by others . Not surprisingly , other expensive Vino Tavola soon appeared and Super Tuscan wines were born .
Re-enter Italian ingenuity : with the passing of Goria ’ s Law in 1992 , the category Indicazione Geografica Tipica ( IGT ) came into being . Freed of the DOC restrictions , the industry immediately flourished , bringing forth wines from new grapes and new methods of production . Everyone emerged a winner : consumers gained a whole category of friendly international-style wines , most often at affordable prices ; producers were liberated to pursue modernization and profits ; and the image of Italian wines was rejuvenated . IGT stands for modernization .
Look for the terms DOC / DOCG on labels . Although not a perfect guideline , these terms are clues to the style of the wine . If you are choosing a wine for a traditional Italian dish , choose a DOC / DOCG wine , especially one from the same region as the dish . If you are matching to a modern or international dish , you may be more inclined to an IGT wine .
Italian wines : something old and something new ? Absolutely ! Italy preserves our romantic notions and satisfies modern sensibilities while enticing us with a coolness factor , maintaining food relevance , and attracting us with beguiling charm . �
Perhaps Tuscany best illustrates the two faces of Italian wine . Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino embrace tradition with tightly controlled options for grape varieties ( primarily Sangiovese ), vineyard techniques , and winemaking regimens ; whereas , the coastal regions of Bolgheri and Maremma serve up a lively selection of internationally-inspired wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon , Merlot , and Syrah frequently aged in barriques .
Sicily has grown into a dynamic supplier of wines based on international varieties such as Syrah and Chardonnay , but has also elevated local grape varieties such as Nero d ’ Avola to international attention to create modern classics .
Veneto , the traditional home of light , quaffable Valpolicella , has witnessed the re-emergence of Ripasso wines and new internationally-inspired Rosso Veronese .
Campania has resurrected almost extinct varieties famous in Roman times ( Falanghina , Fiano ), using modern white wine methods to create delicious , round wines unique in the wine world .
Apulia aggressively competes in the modern international market with cleanly-made traditional varietal wines based on Primitivo and Negroamaro , varieties that traditionally produce dry earthy wines with dried cherry and leather character .
The regions of Venezia Giulia- Friulano and Trentino-Alto Adige create copious amounts of ultrafresh white wines based on a wide array of traditional and international grape varieties , but they are perhaps best known for gulpable Pinot Grigio .
The central Italian regions of Abbruzzi and Marche offer lovely alternatives to their more westerly neighbour , Tuscany . They offer fresh , medium-weight reds based on the grape Montepulciano and fresh , lively whites based on Verdicchio .
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