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I asked Carlo the ubiquitous wine interview question : “ How is a good wine made ?” Carlo ’ s answer is very well stated : “ The focus has to be in the vineyard . I could imagine myself taking care of the vineyard only , but I could never see myself focusing exclusively on the cellars . A good wine is made in the vineyard .”
Today such an answer is common , but in the early 1980s when Carlo advocated cutting back vineyard yields by harvesting fewer grapes per plant , he met great resistance . “ When I explained my philosophy of cutting back fruit to one Tuscan winery owner , as a method of increasing the fruit quality for a better wine , the producer laughed at me . He replied that he would rather kill his daughter than cut back the quantity of grapes per plant !” Well , we hope that no Italian daughters have been harmed on Carlo Ferrini ’ s account : today , top producers are converts to Ferrini ’ s viticultural renaissance and truly value quality over quantity . In context , Carlo Ferrini can be considered the father of modern Tuscan viticulture .
Carlo and I laughed over the old producer ’ s comments , especially given the current worldwide revolution in modern viticulture that fully endorses Ferrini ’ s approach . Although a large contingent of “ older ” Italian producers still cling to a volumefirst strategy , they may yet succumb under the pressure of the global trend to drink less , but better . Tuscany , and actually all of Italy , has come a long way in the past 20 years as quantity has given way to quality in a rebirth of viticulture and winemaking . Thank you , Carlo Ferrini . �
GLOSSARY OF WINE TERMS
Agronomy : Plant science that encompasses the study of genetics , physiology , meteorology , and soil science .
Chianti Classico Wine Consortium : A regulatory board set up in 1927 to conserve the tradition of Chianti Classico wines .
Enology : The science and study of all aspects of winemaking from grape harvest to bottle .
Viticulture : A branch of horticulture , it is the science , production and study of grapes .
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