ask a sommelier
How does soil enhance the flavour of grapes ? Can you expect changes in the flavour of grapes with water content and seasonal fluctuations ? In short , can you actually taste the weather ? – Lev Zentner
Dear Lev ,
Yes ! Let ’ s first consider the effect of weather . Few wine regions are blessed with predictable weather year in , year out . Many of the great classic regions ( Bordeaux , Champagne , Burgundy ) are in “ marginal ” climates in which the annual weather varies considerably . Great years ( or “ vintages ”) experience few threats such as heavy rains , hail , drought , high winds , killing frosts , or growth-stunting heat (> 35˚C ). Great vintages stretch on into the fall so that the growing season is long and even . Great years give excellent , healthy grapes with full ripeness , little disease , and intense flavours .
Less-than-ideal conditions will affect the taste of finished wines . Rain can dilute flavours and intensity ; high humidity promotes disease in the vineyard that can affect flavours ; high heat can induce premature sugar ripening at the expense of flavour development ; excessive sun exposure can sunburn grapes , whereas too little sun can produce under-ripe character in wines ( green pepper in Cabernet Sauvignon or cat litter box in Sauvignon Blanc ).
The soils in many classic regions can help even out the effects of vintage variation . For example , the freedraining gravel soils of the Left Bank of Bordeaux help prevent the waterlogging of vine root systems . Overall , vintage variation creates ups and downs in quality but creates an extra dimension of complexity . And yes , for a well-documented region such as Bordeaux , experienced tasters can guess the vintage based on the flavour profile of the wine .
– Gary Hewitt
What are tannins ?
Dear Darlene ,
– Darlene Cox
Tannins in wine are what give you a sensation of dryness on your palate , or , in extreme cases , a sandpaper-like mouth-puckering feeling . Since tannins come from the grape skins and seeds ( sometimes even the stems ), they are noticeably present in red wines . Tannins are antioxidants , so they help preserve wines , and are necessary for any red wine intended for your cellar . ( Over time , tannins will drop with other solids in the wine as sediments , and the tannins that are left will become smoother and silkier rather than rough and tough .)
A wine with minimal tannins will feel smooth on the palate — the sort of wine you might enjoy on its own . A wine with rough , bracing tannins might be a good candidate to pair with a high protein meal , since the protein binds with tannins to smooth out the wine and bring out the fruit ( which is why many people find a powerful , tannic red wine so good with steak ).
If you prefer lower tannins , ask for a wine with smooth , soft or velvety tannins ; if you prefer your wine to grab you by the collar and give you a tussle , ask for a wine with firm or bracing tannins .
– Sylvia Jansen
I understand that Port is only made in good vintage years , or do they only make good vintage Port in good years ?
– Jim Walsh
Dear Jim ,
British journalist Henry Vinzetelly said it best : “ There are almost as many styles of Port as shades of ribbon in a haberdasher ’ s shop !” Port is made each and every year and divided into two categories : wood ( tawnies , etc .) and bottle ( ruby , LBV , vintage , etc .). Only a few styles show a vintage date , and even fewer are considered “ vintage ” Port . Even in a very good year , no Port house ( winery ) will decide on the fate of their young Port until it has developed over 18 months . Then , if both the house and the Port and Douro Wines Institute agree that the wine of a given year is exceptional enough , a “ vintage ” is declared . In theory , producers can declare each year to be a vintage Port year , but they typically only do so three or four times in a decade , when conditions ( and wines ) are ideal .
The larger , mainly British-owned houses — Grahams , Taylor Fladgate , and Warre ’ s — will often disagree over which vintages to declare , and they will rarely declare two years in a row . A good example of two very good , but contested , vintages occurred in 1991 and 1992 .
The 1991 vintage was favoured by most houses , especially the Symington family — owners of Dow , Grahams , and Warre ’ s . In 1992 , a few declared , particularly Taylor and Fonseca . The latter is now considered the better year by most !
Again , many of these same players will have a vintage “ Quinta ” ( or single vineyard ) Port , which they may make as a vintage Port or a special release in non-vintage years . Some of these may outshine Ports from vintage years and come in at a fraction of the price . Regardless of the year , each year some form of Port is made and most that we see in the market are blends of multi-year Ports . Enjoy one of life ’ s pleasures : vintage Port ! ( But , please , be patient . . . )
– Darren Raeside
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