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By Sylvia Jansen
I never thought about winemaking as a high-risk activity . But scratch the surface of winemaking history and you will expose both slapstick and horror . Unlucky blokes fainting into open tanks from carbon dioxide rising out of fermenting wine , people falling off the edges of steep slopes trying to bring the crop in , murdering and plundering for the best vineyards — it ’ s enough to bring in the workplace safety people .
The scariest workplace hazard had to be in Champagne while they were developing their techniques . Taking a thin , acidic wine and turning it into a sparkling quaff suitable for royal courts in Paris was dangerous work . Bottles exploded on a regular basis . In fact , during the eighteenth century , close to half the bottles never made it to their customers . Before the age of safety goggles and steel-toed boots , we are told that workers would brave the cellars wearing fencing masks to protect head and face . Given what was going on , it ’ s a wonder they did not use full body gear or riotcop armour .
The explosions were the result of Champagne ’ s unique production method : creating a second fermentation in the bottle . Getting the fizz into the wine happened first by accident , but , with its popularity , the process was perfected over time . Today , each bottle is filled with base wine , and a bit of sugar and yeast added . The bottle is laid to rest while the yeast goes to work on the sugar , producing more alcohol and carbon dioxide . With nowhere to go , the gas is absorbed by the wine , and the pressure builds to around six atmospheres — more than in a bus tire . Even today , the pressure is enough to blow the bottom out of the occasional bottle . When they exploded regularly , I wonder how many fingers flew .
Ironically it was the British who swooped in to save the French bubbly , and liberate the front line workers from their fencing masks . Strong British coal-fired glass , rather than the flimsy wood-fired French glass , was the answer . Today , even though an odd bottle still goes off every now and then , at least it ’ s not every other one .
Anyone who has opened a bottle of Champagne — or any sparkling wine , for that matter — knows that too much dancing around with the bottle , or opening it without a good grip on the cork , can take out your window or your neighbour ’ s cat . But compared to doing battle in a Champagne cellar with glass exploding all around you , it ’ s easy . On the other hand , it might be a good idea to wear your fencing mask anyway , just in case .
So here ’ s to you , with sparkles . �
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