48 | T H E B A R OSSA MAG // W I NE REVIEWS
GRANT BURGE
MESHACH BAROSSA SHIRAZ
2012 PEWSEY VALE THE CONTOURS
EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
2012 MESH CLASSIC RELEASE
EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
2012
Deep in colour yet vibrant in hue, the distinguished 2012
season has given birth to a Meshach of brooding power,
surging with black fruits of all kinds, black pastilles,
liquorice and dark chocolate, underlined by the gamey
complexity of two years maturation in oak barrels. Firm,
fine tannins draw out a finish of great line and length.
Signature Barossa Shiraz and benchmark Meshach. The great 2012 season in Eden Valley is tracking with
pristine determination at six years of age, upholding
the tension of pure lime and lemon that defined its
youth, and ever so slowly building the personality
of honeyed toast, spice and roast nuts. It has barely
embarked on its secondary journey, and its magnificent,
taut yet ripe acidity and stunning line and length
promise a profound future. The calibre of the 2012 season in the esteem of Robert
Hill-Smith and Jeffrey Grosset is evidenced in their first
ever rerelease of Mesh. Five years of bottle age has
built wonderful depth of toasty, spicy, roast almond
complexity while doing nothing to diminish the laser
line and lemon and lime tension of this great vintage.
For all it represents, it’s a bargain.
grantburgewines.com.au pewseyvale.com meshwine.com
95 POINTS
$175
95 POINTS
$38
95 POINTS
$38
GRANT BURGE SHADRACH
BAROSSA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
2010 PEWSEY VALE EDEN VALLEY
1961 BLOCK RIESLING
2012 TURKEY FLAT VINEYARDS
BUTCHER’S BLOCK SHIRAZ
2016
The spectacular 2010 season has delivered a Barossa
Cabernet of well-tempered ripeness, upholding
blackcurrant and capsicum varietal integrity and
framing it in the supple, succulent generosity of the
Barossa. At eight years of age, the gamey, pan juice
and roast capsicum personality of maturity adds a layer
of intrigue. Fine tannins remain confidently poised,
promising medium-term potential. A new release to commemorate the 170th anniversary
of Riesling at Pewsey Vale, from a ‘dress circle’ block
in this grand, historic site, this is a riesling layered with
considerable depth of old vine presence, and amplified
texture of slatey Eden Valley minerality. It juxtaposes
cool, high acid tension with the generosity of the
season. In undeviating line and determined length,
this is a Riesling force to be reckoned with. Welcome to the new age of Barossa Shiraz, where
early-picked freshness and characterful pepper and
spice rule! Maker Mark Bulman was concerned his brand
new release might be chastised for not being sufficiently
‘Barossa’. To the contrary, he’s captured a regional
and varietal integrity too often masked by alcohol and
oak. Modern palates want more Barossa Shiraz of such
delightful refinement.
grantburgewines.com.au pewseyvale.com turkeyflat.com.au
94 POINTS
$92
94 POINTS
$32
93 POINTS
$25
ROCKFORD ROD & SPUR
SHIRAZ CABERNET
2014 HENSCHKE
KEYNETON EUPHONIUM
2013 MESH
EDEN VALLEY RIESLING
2017
Bright, crunchy Cabernet leaves a more pronounced
impression than its one-third inclusion might suggest,
well meshed with the spice and succulent berry fruits
of Shiraz, freshened with lively acidity and nicely
textured, super fine tannins. A blend of length and
vibrancy, promising strong ageing potential. A well-crafted wine that utilises the fragrance and
structure of more Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc
than usual to balance this warm season. The result is a
wine of violet fragrance, crunchy dark berry fruits and
a firm, grainy chassis of tannin structure. Four years of
maturity has brought subtle gamey, savoury complexity
that carries through a long finish. A fragrant apple blossom and white pepper bouquet
and steely lime juice, granny smith and talc palate tone
the exuberance and exotic quince notes of the season.
It concludes with a wonderful juxtaposition of tension
and concentration, carrying with great line and length.
A standout of the season, and it will be among the
longer lived.
rockfordwines.com.au henschke.com.au meshwine.com
93 POINTS
$36
93 POINTS
$60
93 POINTS
$30