WIN E R E V IE WS // T H E B AROS S A MAG | 55
LEO BURING
MATURE RELEASE
EDEN VALLEY RIESLING 2013 GRANT BURGE THE VIGNERON
RESERVE EDEN VALLEY
RIESLING 2015 STEINGARTEN BAROSSA
RIESLING 2018 SONS OF EDEN FREYA
EDEN VALLEY RIESLING 2019
The poise, purity and sheer, bombastic
acid focus at six years of age is testimony
to the remarkable stamina and longevity
of this sensational Leonay. Even now, it is
but half way through its journey toward
even commencing its drinking window,
cut with a razor line of lemon juice
acidity, evolving in slow motion
to preserved lemon, buttered toast
and deep spice. A sensation. A Riesling of concentration and tension,
capturing the exuberance of the 2015
season and framing it in focused lemon,
lime and granny smith apple crunch,
evolving slowly and subtly into toast
and honey. It holds spectacular line and
length, charged with fantastic acid drive. Steingarten is a singularity, a piercing
core of exact lemon, lemon and granny
smith apple, to which 18 months of
life have added spice, toast and honey
in subtle measure, yet upholding
tense, youthful focus in acid line and
persistence, promising a very long
future indeed. A classy and sensitive take on the
2019 season, Freya perfectly balances
the friendly fruit profile of a dry, low-
yielding season with excellent acid poise
and a long and even finish. Impressive
confidence and presence abound, while
upholding vibrant energy and focus.
96 POINTS 95 POINTS 95 POINTS 94 POINTS
$39.99
$30
$50
$25
DANDELION VINEYARDS
ENCHANTED GARDEN OF THE
EDEN VALLEY RIESLING 2019 FIRST DROP THE CREAM
BAROSSA VALLEY
SHIRAZ 2016 BETHANY BLUE QUARRY
BAROSSA VALLEY
GRENACHE 2018 JOHN DUVAL WINES
ENTITY BAROSSA SHIRAZ 2017
Snatched from the vines at the perfect
instant of ripeness, this is a Riesling that
presents brilliant tension, energy and
endurance exceedingly rare in the 2019
season. Built for the long-haul, it's honed,
chiselled and streamlined, riding a tense
line of cool acidity that draws out a
finish of razor focus and grand
persistence. Patience. The big end of town too often lost its
way in the warm 2016 season in the
Barossa, but Matt Gant's flagship unites
Ebenezer, Greenock and Seppeltsfield at
full ripeness with long ageing in American
and (mostly) French oak, while upholding
fruit definition, freshness, focus and
integrity on a long finish. This is no
simple balancing act. Kudos. Bethany's rebrand is more than just
label-deep, launching this historic brand
into an exciting and modern style of
vibrant fruit purity and freshness. This
Grenache exemplifies the evolution,
showcasing the vibrant purity of
Barossa Grenache in all of its spicy,
tangy, red-fruited glory. It's irresistible
now, but provenance demonstrates
that it will age magnificently, too. Picked a full month later than 2016,
John Duval treated the elegant 2017
season sensitively, without too much
extraction, whole bunches or oak. Entity
exudes the calm poise that can only
come from a long, relaxed ripening
season, uniting considerable depth
of Barossa black fruits with fantastic
natural acidity and finely crafted tannins.
94 POINTS 93 POINTS 93 POINTS 93 POINTS
$27.50
$150
$45
$50
THORN-CLARKE SANDPIPER
EDEN VALLEY RIESLING 2019 JOHN DUVAL WINES PLEXUS
BAROSSA SHIRAZ GRENACHE
MOURVĂDRE 2017 MOUNTADAM VINEYARDS
THE RED HIGH EDEN 2016 PAISLEY WINES
VELVET BAROSSA VALLEY
GRENACHE 2017
Thorn-Clarke has captured fantastic
purity and precision in a season so often
tropical and overripe in other hands.
Impeccable ripeness defines a style of
floral fragrance, delicate fruit liveliness
and beautifully focused acid line.
Enticing from day one, it holds
medium-term promise. I like the way the Barossa's cooler
seasons draw out the spice, tang and
precision of its reds. John Duval has
achieved this without sacrificing the
depth and personality that define the
Barossa, making for a blend that unites
flesh with finely structure tannins,
well-gauged dark chocolate oak
and impressive persistence. Cabernet and Merlot from the lofty
High Eden have achieved full ripeness
here, while upholding the lively acidity
of this altitude. Deep black fruits and
dark chocolate oak unite on a finish of
considerable power and persistence,
supported by finely structured tannins. Derek Fitzgerald has always been very
sensitive with his tannin management,
and 'velvet' is an appropriate title for
his Grenache. The cool 2017 season has
produced a particularly spicy, tangy, even
crunchy style of harmony, persistence
and appeal.
92 POINTS 92 POINTS 91 POINTS 91 POINTS
$20
$40
$40
$27.50
PAISLEY WINES
SILK BAROSSA VALLEY
SHIRAZ 2017 SORBY ADAMS
THE REVEREND CANON
CABERNET SHIRAZ 2016 SORBY ADAMS JELLICOE
EDEN VALLEY RIESLING 2019 THE WILLOWS VINEYARD
BONESETTER BAROSSA
SHIRAZ 2015
2017 turned down the volume and
impact of Barossa Shiraz and turned up
the spice, the tang and the refreshing
drive. This is a style of heightened red
berry fruit freshness, drawn out long
and lively by a beautiful acid line and
fine-ground tannins. Cabernet (two-thirds of the blend)
brings structure and grip to the
black fruit depth of Shiraz, bolstered
confidently by the dark chocolate
and roasted coffee bean character of
30 months in 30% new French oak
hogsheads. Vibrant acidity and finely
structured tannins define a long finish,
promising considerable potential. The 30 year old vines in the high
Jellicoe vineyard have produced a
profoundly fragrant and floral Riesling
in the concentrated, low yielding 2019
vintage, a powerful style of juicy,
fleshy fruit succulence that is ready to
drink right away. It's faintly exotic and
eminently friendly. From Scholz's oldest Shiraz vines, long
aged in French oak barrels, this is a ripe,
dry and savoury style in a traditional
Barossa Shiraz mould. Fine tannins
support great depth of ripe black fruits
on a long finish.
91 POINTS 91 POINTS 90 POINTS 89 POINTS
$27.50
$75
WINE REVIEWS
$20
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