58 | T HE B A R OSSA M AG // W I NE REVIEWS
PENFOLDS LOT 1990
POT DISTILLED SINGLE
BATCH BRANDY PENFOLDS RWT BIN 798
BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ 2016 TURKEY FLAT
SHIRAZ 2016
A wonderfully evocative and complex brandy that
seamlessly and masterfully morphs the magnificence
of a remarkable old brandy with the complexity of a
hint of Grandfather and a tweak of young oak. In mere
mortal hands, such creativity could make for a disjoint
style, but here James Godfrey's lifetime of experience
make for an alluringly silky smoothness and harmony.
It's deeply powerful in complexity, profoundly enduring
in persistence and yet elegant and delicate in poise and
balance. A remarkable achievement. An impressively deep, bright purple hue heralds an RWT
of great stature and spine. This is a commanding vintage
that delivers powerful, spicy fruit, while lacking nothing
in structural assuredness of firm, fine tannin endurance.
It culminates in a finish of impeccable line and enduring
persistence. One of the greats in the twenty year history
of RWT, and set to go down among the longest lived. Here's living, glorious proof that the epic 2015 Turkey
Flat Shiraz was no one hit wonder. Mark Bulman is in
a deep purple patch, and the character and focus he's
built into this wine are something to behold. Tapping the
black fruit power and exotic spice depth of 1847 vines,
it captures impeccable poise and endurance, thanks to
delightfully structured, super-fine tannins. Patience.
penfolds.com penfolds.com turkeyflat.com.au
98 POINTS
$425
96 POINTS
$200
95 POINTS
$49
PENFOLDS BIN 150
MARANANGA SHIRAZ 2016 HENSCHKE THE WHEELWRIGHT
VINEYARD EDEN VALLEY
SHIRAZ 2015 PETER LEHMANN
MARGARET BAROSSA
SEMILLON 2011
This is a Marananga of fine-grained, structural
confidence, with the juicy, spicy red and black berry
fruits of the district uniting with classic milk chocolate
to compelling effect. A core of impressive, focused fruit
integrity carries from start through long finish. A great
Marananga with a strong future before it. A quintessential Eden Valley Shiraz, spicy and vibrant,
telling the tale of one of the higher reaches of the
central Eden Valley in tangy, spicy, dark berry fruits,
fine-ground tannins and outstanding persistence.
A characterful wine that defines another piece to
the tapestry of Eden Valley districts. The cool 2011 season has chiselled out a tightly
honed Margaret of cut lemon grass, upholding
youthful vibrancy and considerable energy at seven
years of age. Subtle notes of butterscotch and lanolin
are only beginning to emerge on a long finish marked
out by focused line and great stamina.
penfolds.com henschke.com peterlehmannwines.com
94 POINTS
$100
94 POINTS
$130
94 POINTS
$35
DUTSCHKE GHR NEIGHBOURS
GODS HILL ROAD SHIRAZ 2016 PENFOLDS BIN 138 BAROSSA
VALLEY SHIRAZ GRENACHE
MATARO 2016 PENFOLDS BIN 51 EDEN VALLEY
RIESLING 2018
This is an action-packed release for GHR, brimming
with Barossa black fruits of the kind normally reserved
for much more expensive labels, backed with dark
chocolate oak and firm, fine tannins. For all of its
impact, it upholds classic Dutschke brightness
and succulence. Dark berry, black cherry, plum and stewed rhubarb
fruits declare the depth of a relatively dry season in the
Barossa, framed in firm, fine-grained, dry tannins. Shiraz
assumes a confident lead, making for an unashamedly
full-bodied SGM of spicy fruit focus and lingering
persistence. A mandarin and tangelo exoticism leads out,
telling the tale of a growing season of above average
temperatures, flowing into a tense palate of taut lemon
and lime juice. A touch of phenolic grip brings firmness
to the structure of a finish of great persistence.
A Riesling of full-flavoured concentration and
structural tension.
dutschkewines.com penfolds.com penfolds.com
92 POINTS
$25
92 POINTS
$60
92 POINTS
$40
HENSCHKE HENRY'S
SEVEN BAROSSA 2016 TURKEY FLAT BUTCHERS
BLOCK SHIRAZ 2017 YALUMBA OLD BUSH
VINE GRENACHE 2017
A beautifully spicy and fruity take on Eden Valley
Shiraz co-fermented with Barossa viognier, with
medium-bodied restraint that speaks more of the
personality of Grenache than its 15% representation
might suggest. It’s succulent elegant, culminating
in beautifully managed, very fine tannins. Setting the pace for the modern face of Barossa Shiraz,
this is a flamboyant style that celebrates the exotic lift
and fragrant spice of whole bunch fermentation. With
no new oak to speak of, it's brimming with juicy dark
berry fruits and structured with fine, supple tannins.
It's versatile at the table and eminently spice-ready. The child of vines largely between 35 and 80 years
of age, this is a light-bodied, lunchtime grenache of
rhubarb, leaf and yellow plum character. It carries the
grip of fine tannin structure to draw out a long finish.
A versatile style that will enjoy tapas with a light chill.
henschke.com turkeyflat.com.au yalumba.com
92 POINTS
$37
91 POINTS
$22
90 POINTS
$21