The Barossa Mag Autumn 2019 | Page 51

WINE REVIEWS // T H E B AROSSA MAG | 51 TURKEY FLAT GRENACHE 2017 The grand 100+ year old vines of the Turkey Flat vineyard have never looked more dignified, streamlined and honed back to racing spec. It takes micro- engineering fanaticism to highlight fragrance and spice before juicy fruit; texture and finesse before generosity, and seductive allure before hedonistic impact. Mark Bulman has not only pulled this off, he's demonstrated emphatically that his 2016 was no one hit Jimmy Watson wonder. turkeyflat.com.au 95 POINTS $40 GLAETZER ANAPERENNA BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 YALUMBA THE VIRGILIUS EDEN VALLEY VIOGNIER 2017 HEGGIES VINEYARD ESTATE BOTRYTIS RIESLING 2017 A masterclass in the brilliance of 16% Ebenezer Cabernet in lifting the fragrance, structure and acid line of gloriously glossy Shiraz to wonderful elevations of violet fragrance and enticing black cherry glory. Supple, fine, intricately polished Glaetzer tannins mark out a long, juicy and joyous finish. A broad- shouldered Olympian in a perfectly tailored suit. The culmination of 35 years of fanatical attention to detail in taming this flamboyant variety is on parade here. Dignified yet multi-faceted, calm yet determined, structured yet seamless, this is a wine of intricate engineering and grand longevity that now rightfully ranks among the great Viogniers of the world. Fresh, succulent and tangy, this is a Botrytis that marries voluptuous, juicy generosity with magnificent citrus freshness and glorious acid drive that defines a finish of excellent line and length. A great Heggies Bortrytis, irresistible now and with loads of potential. glaetzer.com yalumba.com heggiesvineyard.com 95 POINTS $52 95 POINTS 94 POINTS $48 $27 HENTLEY FARM VON KASPER CABERNET SAUVIGNON BAROSSA VALLEY 2016 TURKEY FLAT BAROSSA VALLEY GRENACHE ROSÉ 2018 TURKEY FLAT BUTCHER'S BLOCK RED BLEND 2017 GLAETZER BISHOP BY BEN GLAETZER BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ 2016 This single vineyard on the banks of Greenock Creek has given birth to a beautifully authentic Barossa Cabernet, laced with hallmark blackcurrant and cassis fruit that rises in time to violet aromas. Sensitively massaged tannins build a fine web of structure, gently supported by dark chocolate oak. The result is confidently full-bodied while upholding tension, tang, persistence and beauty. I have long loved TFR and Mark Bulman has elevated it to an all new plateau. It's finely structured, fragrantly aromatic, refreshingly textured, juicy and tangy all at the same time. Here's proof that elegant Rosé isn't all about Pinot and Sangiovese - Grenache from ye olde guarde can confidently play at this cunning game, too. The embodiment of modern Barossa SGM, uniting the juicy persona of classic old vines with the crunchy tang of an al dente harvest and the fragrant, herbal lift of strategically deployed whole bunch fermentation. The result is playfully enticing, bucket loads of fun and eminently tapas-ready. An exact, modern take on the exuberance of Ebenezer, from vines between 35 and 120 years of age, packed with juicy, succulent blackberries, black cherries and satsuma plums. Crafted with exacting Glaetzer polish and gloss, it's framed in supple tannins and perfectly integrated, dark chocolate oak. hentleyfarm.com.au turkeyflat.com.au turkeyflat.com.au glaetzer.com 94 POINTS $90 92 POINTS $21 92 POINTS 92 POINTS $21 $33 ST HALLETT EDEN VALLEY RS RIESLING 2017 DUTSCHKE UNCLE SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2016 HAYES FAMILY WINES SAM'S GRENACHE 2018 HENTLEY FARM BLACK BEAUTY SPARKLING SHIRAZ NV From a single block of particularly aromatic Riesling, this is a medium sweet style of classic Eden Valley lemon and lime, with a lift of fragrant pink apple perfume and subtle guava complexity from a touch of co-fermented Gewürztraminer. It finishes clean and lively, having held excellent acid tension and drive. Wayne Dutschke has reinvented his historic WillowBend blend as a tribute to his uncle and grape grower, Ken Semmler. It contrasts the depth and succulence of blackberry and satsuma plum fruit with the brightness of southern Barossa acidity and the structure of finely crafted tannins. This is the wine to drink while everything else in his stable rests in the cellar. Signature northern Barossa Grenache that captures all the flamboyant appeal of Ebenezer and Koonunga in bright raspberry and juicy wild strawberry fruits, toned with finely structured tannins that support a succulent finish. Eminently BBQ ready. The crunch of deep, dark Barossa Shiraz is heightened by the firm, grainy tannins of a significant spell in more than one- third new oak, making for a structured style that calls for plenty of time to soften. Its bright fruit definition carries long on the finish, furnishing the stamina to go the distance. sthallett.com.au dutschkewines.com hayesfamilywines.com hentleyfarm.com.au 91 POINTS $20 91 POINTS $25 90 POINTS 90 POINTS $26 ROGERS & RUFUS GRENACHE OF BAROSSA ROSÉ 2018 YALUMBA THE SCRIBBLER CABERNET SAUVIGNON & SHIRAZ 2014 Unashamedly at the pale extreme of the Rosé spectrum, this is a light-bodied style of subtle strawberry hull character, tangy acidity and fine structure. If you love super elegant Rosé, as far from Barbi pink juice as could possibly be conceived, this is your wine. Four-and-a-half years of age has coaxed out a gamey complexity to the Scribbler, while retaining its vibrant acidity and crunchy, firm tannin web. It holds the potential to build complexity for a few more years yet. With a pale, bright salmon pink blush, this is a young, tank-fermented sparkling that celebrates the fragrance and juiciness of young Grenache and Pinot, while upholding impressive delicacy and tension unexpected for such a blend from the Barossa. A young an precocious style built around a surprising blend of equal parts Grenache and Pinot Noir with ten percent Chardonnay. rogersandrufus.com yalumba.com hentleyfarm.com.au 89 POINTS $22 89 POINTS $23 HENTLEY FARM BLANC DE NOIR 2018 89 POINTS $62 WINE REVIEWS BE SEEN IN THE BAROSSA MAG. SEND YOUR WINE SAMPLES TO: $27. 50 TYSON STELZER, 14 ANDREA STREET, TARRAGINDI, QLD 4121