JEWELLERY & WATCHES 27
Beyond the movement of celestial bodies, the shade of the region’ s clear night sky has also nurtured the imagination and creativity of Audemars Piguet artisans. It was this deep blue hue that inspired Gérald Genta to replicate it for the dial of the first Royal Oak in 1972( Model 5402). At the time, the Geneva-based dial maker Stern developed the“ Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” colour by adding black pigment n ° 50 to the protective varnish( called Zapon). The“ cloud” effect is said to come from the chemical reaction produced by the small amount of black colour poured into the liquid lacquer.
Recreating this blue colour is a complex process, as the shade varies depending on the duration and temperature of the galvanic bath. Today,“ Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dials are obtained using a PVD( Physical Vapour Desposition) process to ensure a homogenous colour. Whether due to its complexity or the enthusiasm surrounding the first Royal Oak model, the“ Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” hue has since become as iconic as the timepiece itself.
“ The sky of the Vallée de Joux has played a key role in the history of Audemars Piguet, inspiring the colour‘ Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’, which
is now one of the brand’ s signature elements. The launch of this new ceramic is a tribute to both the region and its talents, and to our relentless quest for innovation.” Ilaria Resta – Chief Executive Officer, Audemars Piguet
CERAMIC, WHEN ANCESTRAL KNOW- HOW MEETS CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY
The“ Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic joins the black, electric blue, green and brown hues already available in the collections, furthering the Manufacture’ s enduring tradition of innovation in terms of materials and design.
Lightweight and resistant to scratches yet challenging to machine due to its extreme hardness, ceramic has been part of the brand’ s offering since 1986. However, this material is among the oldest of humanity, dating back to the Neolithic period when it was used as potteries for practical purposes. Since then, it has undergone a spectacular evolution, allowing the creation of art and decoration, and becoming more durable and resistant with time. Taking various forms across cultures, ceramic became porcelain in China, earthenware in Italy or France, and glazed in Islamic traditions. The Industrial Revolution propelled ceramic into a new era of innovation, enabling serial production. Ongoing research into this material eventually leads to the development of ceramics with groundbreaking properties, inaugurating new applications each day, and subsequently introducing it into fields as diverse as construction, aeronautics, electronics, medicine, telecommunications, robotics … and watchmaking.
Applying the“ Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade to ceramic required several years of development to guarantee a homogenous hue throughout the watch and to ensure that it could be reproduced. Each watch component undergoes numerous production stages including machining, sintering and finishing. This final step is carried out by hand with the extreme care and dexterity of Audemars Piguet artisans, who grant ceramic components the same high-end level of finishing as precious metals, despite their hard and breakable nature. The depth of colour is further embellished by the alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces that create plays of light and highlight the multifaceted architecture of the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore cases. Combining high-tech machining with traditional handfinishing, this unique material brings together a wide range of modern watchmaking skills.
“ Developments and innovations in the field of ceramic are at the heart of Audemars Piguet’ s projects, as the company continues to push the limits of its expertise in terms of colour – especially by dressing all watch components in the iconic‘ Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ hue.” Thibaut Le Loarer – Head of Research, Audemars Piguet
ISSUE 70 2025 THE ART OF LUXURY