82 JEWELLERY & WATCHES
TANZANIAN SUNRISE
GÜBELIN PRESENTS THIS UNIQUE HAUTE JOAILLERIE NECKLACE , INSPIRED BY THE INNER WORLD OF AN EXCEPTIONAL SPINEL
Tanzanian Sunrise is the latest haute joaillerie creation from the House of Gübelin . The impressive necklace is inspired by the fascinating inner world of a red spinel from Tanzania weighing more than 22 ct , which reminded the designers of a dragonfly spreading its wings at sunrise and taking flight .
Tanzanian Sunrise combines exquisite gemstones and the highest level of artisanship . Gübelin relies on the combination of Physical Tracers and digital technology from Provenance Proof to document the origin and authenticity of the necklace .
Unique inspiration The inner world of a gemstone is as unique as a fingerprint . The Gübelin design team interprets the spectacular structures within a gemstone , where they find inspiration to create unrivalled pieces , which , in addition to their external beauty , reflect their hidden inner beauty .
With the aid of a microscope , the designers immersed themselves deep within this red spinel from Tanzania ( 22.08 ct ). There they discovered spectacular structures reminding them of a dragonfly whose wings sparkle in the radiant colours of the rising sun . Following this inspiration , they created a sculptural necklace with gemstoneset wings spreading from its central stone in the most enchanting colours of the dawn . Tanzanian Sunrise combines stunning gemstones and the highest level of artisanship to create masterful haute joaillerie .
Exquisite artisanship The cushion-shaped spinel forms the heart of this haute joaillerie creation , set with marquise-shaped rose spinels , pink sapphires and rubies totalling more than 50 ct . Masterfully arranged , these handpicked gemstones are carefully combined and meticulously arranged to create a stunning colour gradient .
The necklace combines organically curved elements in red gold , reminiscent of wings glistening in the sun . They are set with orange and pink spinels in various shades of colour in a free pavé thread . Specially cut diamond baguettes whose radiance is underscored by a platinum setting add additional brilliance and plays of light . The creation is the outcome of over 700 hours of the finest artisanship at the House of Gübelin ’ s own jewellery atelier in Lucerne .
Raphael Gübelin , President of the House of Gübelin , explains : “ Tanzanian Sunrise is a brilliant example of the interplay between our fields of expertise . Inspired by the inner world of this rare and treasured spinel , the artists in our company ’ s own atelier created this unique piece of haute joaillerie .”
THE ART OF LUXURY ISSUE 67 2024