The Art of Luxury Issue 60 2023 | Página 91

Captured in all its fullness , just before the harvest , the fleshy vine glows with faceted Mozambique rubies in superb 5.18 , 4.25 and 3.02-carat cushion cuts , respectively set on a short necklace , ring and earrings . To emphasise the realism of the white gold tendrils and the magnificently textured leaves , the necklace shimmers with a pavé of three hundred stones in five cuts and three different dimensions . Realised individually , before being reproduced in wax , the bezels of these diamonds , black spinels , grey spinels and rubies provide a measure of the piece ’ s extreme complexity . Tracing out an airy lace , the openwork on the back of the leaves testifies to the virtuosity involved . In Le Jardin de Chaumet , vine leaves are imbued with an unprecedented air of modernity , as evidenced by the pendants that can be transformed into ear motifs , the subtly asymmetrical ring , or the standout secret watch .
Pensée The parure ’ s twelve pieces distil the pansy ’ s charm , bringing nature and couture together .
In the 1850s , Jean-Baptiste Fossin created a surprisingly realistic pansy flower tiara that illustrated the Maison ’ s naturalistic excellence . In 2023 , Chaumet reinterprets this motif in an exquisitely poetic contemporary proposal featuring 8 / 8 diamonds . The setters create corollas with virtuoso dégradés , in a manner evoking a subtle tempera painting . The discreet pavé realized with tiny bead settings fades behind a gradation of blue , pink and Padparadscha sapphires . Giving an impression of supple silk-like net thanks to the use of the fil couteau technique , a necklace blooms with a pansy rendered in a vitrail setting . The voluptuous flower also unfurls on rings , including one beaming with a Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond . Pansies in yellow diamonds also appear as ear studs , and are to be found on a tiara that can turn into a brooch , like the one created by Fossin . This can be worn in two ways depending on the occasion : the tiara embellished with its flower for an official gala soirée or without for a more informal gathering in the country .
CHAPTER 3 - FLOWERS
Le Jardin de Chaumet is as enchanting as it is vast . After the fields stretching around the woods , the walker encounters the flora and its quartet of essences : pansy , tulip , iris and arum . The flowers in this third chapter give pride of place to the colour inscribed in the Maison ’ s stylistic vocabulary .
Issue 60 2023 THE ART OF LUXURY