WATCHES & TIMEPIECES 91
A great watch has been , and will always be , a personal possession that speaks volumes about its owner . No two people are alike , and the same can be said of the makers that design and manufacture watches . Understanding this makes it easier to see why there are different styles and approaches to watch collecting .
1971 Tudor Oysterdate “ Montecarlo ” 7169 / 0 A watch produced in large numbers based on the 7000 series prototype , the TUDOR Oysterdate chronograph , reference 7169 / 0 , featured a rotatable bezel with a 12-hour graduation to tell the time in a second time zone .
THE FIVE TYPES OF WATCH COLLECTOR
The Classic Collector The Driver
A collector who loves and understands traditional watchmaking . A Classic Collector possesses an eye for detail . They have an appreciation for skilled simplicity , and a habit of doing things the tried and tested way . A thoughtful design isn ’ t enough ; the original purpose is important and contributes to the spirit of a watch .
The Historian
A watch-obsessed scholar whose greatest joy is studying the accomplishments of modern horology . The Historian looks to curate a museum-worthy collection of timepieces . This collector is motivated by the wonderful stories and what the watches represent on a historic level .
The Investor
Looks at the long-term picture over the quick thrill of purchasing their new watches . Like a Classic Collector , the Investor has a keen eye for detail and a passion for watchmaking . After all , when you are spending money on a wristwatch , it ’ s good to know that it will hold its value over the years .
The Trendsetter
Sees trends come and go and is now taking an approach to watch collecting that is their own . They seek to satisfy their own horological desires and are often seen wearing pieces from smaller brands . It ’ s the rare and captivating nature of these timepieces that make it all worth it .
Watch enthusiasts with a passion for cars have always noticed what their favourite driver is wearing . Stemming from a love of automobile racing and the thrill and cultural significance that accompanies it . The Driver associates the golden age of racing with the surge in popularity of sports chronographs .
Focus on who , not how much
A wise connoisseur of horology once said , “ It ’ s not a sin to buy a watch for £ 25,000 , but it ’ s a sin to buy a watch because it ’ s worth £ 25,000 ”.
It used to be that assembling a watch collection took considerable investment . Watchmaking was home to a handful of well-recognised brands . This meant getting even a single timepiece was expensive by today ’ s standards .
Today watches sold for lower prices can sometimes earn you a higher return than pricey legacy timepieces , depending on their origin .
Designers of lower-priced watches have been established for less than 5 years . But their watches can display detailed watchmaking techniques that date back centuries .
The provenance or “ backstory ” of a watch is something that can be forgotten in today ’ s world of fashion . As it is often characterised by explosive trends that fizzle out as quickly as they arrive . The trouble is , buying the latest branded t-shirt isn ’ t the same as dropping a five-figure sum on a coveted watch . Buying into the hype as a watch collector can burn your capital and leave you with an extra-painful serving of buyer ’ s remorse .
With the touting of titanium fittings , carbon-fibre dials , and rubber straps as ‘ the next big thing ’, it ’ s easy to get caught up in the moment . But if you know who ’ s who in the watchmaking industry , you ’ ll soon learn where the stable anchors that guarantee steady returns are .
Issue 52 2022 THE ART OF LUXURY