The Art of Luxury Issue 50 2022 | Page 85

WATCHES & TIMEPIECES
Between the regulating organ and the rotor , the barrel ensures an extremely generous 100-hour power reserve made possible by the reduction in the number of gears . A sapphire crystal dome tops this threedimensional assembly , beneath which one can admire the organic life of the movement .
This unusual construction with its feminine-themed design could not have been more appropriate for Bulgari . The volumes of the watch – featuring a case entirely redesigned by Bulgari to give it a futuristic and opulent profile - are matched by those of the coloured stones . These gems serve to counterbalance the cold precision and micromechanical complexity of this model by instilling the Roman jeweller ’ s warm and exuberant signature touch . For each of the 20 timepieces composing the two pink or white limited editions , jewellers have carefully selected tourmaline , tsavorite , diamonds , rubellite , amethyst , tanzanite and topaz , in an exceptional composition forming a full circle around the movement . The dial entirely paved with snow-set diamonds provides a dazzling backdrop .
Radical in terms of its architecture and construction , while exquisitely precious in terms of its opulent ornamentation , this creation was intended as a tribute to femininity . In its name FlyingT , the T stands for the initial of Max Büsser ’ s wife , Tiffany , as well as for flying Tourbillon . In an ultimate refined touch embodying this sophisticated approach , the movement is designed in such a way that only its owner can read the time .
In contrast to conventional high jewellery codes , Bulgari has always favoured the use of coloured stones rather than diamonds alone . Coloured gems enable the Rome-based Maison to create authentic compositions through a gradual process aimed at achieving harmony and chromatic power adapted to the design of the model . Cut is very important , and Bulgari favours the cabochon which ensures extreme clarity of the stone while emphasising the opulence of the creation . The cabochon cut perfectly matches the FlyingT Allegra ’ s round and voluminous case .
While this may seem simple , the reality is quite different . The movement is vertically built along a central axis orchestrating the overall architecture of the entirely visible mechanism . In this respect , the watch deliberately goes against tradition , since everything that is usually hidden is highlighted here in a three-dimensional construction .
The upper end of the axis carries the diamond-set flying tourbillon and the balance , a vibrant technical organ against which the hours and minutes dial is set at a 50-degree angle , precisely defined so that the owner of the FlyingT Allegra is the only one who can read the time . The case-back reveals the star-shaped oscillating weight : its gold sandblasted rays rotate on the ruthenium disc positioned above a platinum counterweight .
This exceptional partnership goes far beyond the realm of the complicated feminine jewellery watch . It highlights two visions of the world , two interpretations of creativity that are radically different in form , yet which merge in substance within an integrated and harmonious cocreation vividly demonstrating the power of two .
Issue 50 2022 The Art of Luxury
85