optimism. Grassroots changes
such as these, hopefully, can one
day make a difference.
My second guide, Franco,
describes being away from home
and away from his wife and baby
son. Yet nothing is too much, no
request too great and he works
diligently at all hours to showcase
the best of his nation. If hope
exists, it is in the eyes and hearts
of these people, the ‘middle class’
in a country where there is no
middle-class. Hope begins with
them and will undoubtedly rise
through future generations.
The humble zebu
Heading deeper south, guns,
knives and swords are common
accessories in the streets. They’re
a necessity for personal protection. It’s normal to wander past
villagers armed with these
weapons. They are mostly zebukeepers. Zebu is the iconic cow
of Madagascar, distinguished by
a hump on it’s back. The Bara and
Betsileo tribes mostly inhabit the
south. They are two of 18 ethnic
tribes of Madagascar, each wit h
it’s own complex set of cultures
and customs. The Bara tribespeople consider riches in Zebu,
not money. The humble Zebu is
the crux of southern life, used
for food and sacrificial offering
during celebrations, to toil and
plough the fields and to transport
goods and people. Each Zebu is
worth 1 million Ariary, equivalent
to approx. €350. In a country
where the majority lives in abject
poverty, this is invaluable.
472
A Bara tribesman I hear about
in Isalo has 2000 Zebu, earning
him 7 wives, each living in a
different village and answerable
to the first Chief wife. But, more
Zebu equals more problems.
Zebu-stealing is an ingrained
aspect of Bara culture, in which
a man has to steal another man’s
zebu to display his worth at his
coming of age or before getting
married. Now, despite being
made illegal, Zebu stealers are a
real threat and come armed with
guns and knives. The local police
get involved and those traced
would not be spared. But to be
imprisoned for zebu-stealing is
considered an honour. On guided
walks through the desert landscapes of the south, is not unusual
to come across farmers with
police on the hunt for their stolen
zebu. Livelihoods are destroyed
through this act, but with it’s roots
in heritage, there is no stopping it.
Many villagers cannot afford to
buy their own Zebu. This is where
a novel loan company has flourished, loaning out zebu for short
and long-term rentals, charging
affordable pay-back rates. Tanjona
explains how this is transforming
the face of rural society and
pulling many out of the depths of
poverty. Zebu is the currency of
life in southern Madagascar.
Curious cultural
traditions
Brightly-coloured tombs also
intersperse the semi-arid landscapes. To point at tombs with a
finger is forbidden and believed
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