climate and landscape. En route,
we pass a collapsed bridge over
the river. Tanjona, my excellent
driver-guide, details a painful
history in which this bridge and
several others, once linking the
capital city to the provinces, were
bombed by the former President
on losing the 2001 election. He
was extradited to South Africa.
The bridge has been left as a
visible scar and reminder of his
actions during that political
crisis. A new bridge has been
built further along the river.
Cool crisp central
highlands
Antsirabe, meaning ‘place of
salt,’ is the overnight city stop,
so-called as salt was found
here in its heyday. The city was
discovered by the Norwegians
in 1836. The cool climate attracts
people from neighbouring
Indian Ocean islands, La Reunion
and Mauritius, who seek out spas
with thermal springs, believed to
contain healing properties.
One of Africa’s largest markets
transforms this town on
Saturday. ‘Sabotsy’ market
means ‘Saturday,’ as most towns
we pass are named after the
market day of the week. A full
walking tour takes 5 hours. It
is a mind-boggling maze of
crisscrossing lanes, rapidly disorientating. All around, the hustle,
labor and bartering are symbolic
of life in Madagascar. Witnessing
locals at their most hurried is
an eye-opening experience, the
anti-thesis to the Malagasy life
466
motto, ‘mora mora’ meaning
‘take it slow.’ Pickpockets are rife
so I’m forewarned to leave everything in the car. Sure enough,
I’m stunned when I notice a
small child with his fingers in
the back pocket of an elderly
local shopper. Children roam
freely in the market, their clothes
and faces soiled. It’s a giant
playground for stall-keepers’
kids. The deeper in I wade,
the more curious the items
become: knives and weapons,
second-hand mattresses and live
animals. The locals stop to stare
at visitors in curiosity, but are
very quick to return a big smile
and laughter. A genuine smile is
a universal language.
Evenings in the highlands can
be chilly so warm clothing is
necessary, but it is a refreshing
breather from the stifling heat
and humidity.
Semi-arid South
Deeper South, heading
towards Isalo National Park
via Fianarantsoa, scenes
morph again into semi-arid
landscapes of spiny bush and
lunar desert landscapes. The
route is notorious for it’s poor
roads, with gigantic potholes in
places, making for a physically
exhausting drive. We pass several
overturned lorries and passenger
buses. I feel sorry for drivers who
face this whilst attempting to
show people their country and
keep visitors’ spirits up. Bear this
in mind and help them along the
way by being kind.
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