beauty is in the surroundings. After arduous
adventure-filled days, Vakona Forest Lodge is a
peaceful oasis in the lap of nature. In keeping
with the surroundings, hillside bungalows
centre on a large circular thatched bar and
restaurant with log fire, positioned over a lake.
It’s a cozy spot for chilly evenings. Horse riding
through the forest one morning with my chocolate brown beauty, 'Felina,' from nearby Stables
of Falierana, I spot rare white sifaka lemurs
finding breakfast in the treetops. My guide,
Yohann, a French expat, let's me loose as we
gallop along the little-used runway, hitting the
highest speed I've ever strode horseback. The
surroundings are so rich; it’s a treat to explore
by horse at dawn, passing waterfalls, woodland,
a river and hills. As a professional rider, Yohann's
ability encompasses complete beginner to
professional, ensuring the experience is open to
everyone. It makes an unforgettable memoir of
Madagascar.
Challenges of travel
Travel around this dream destination requires
careful planning and research.
The infrastructure poses a major source of
frustration for both visitors and locals. Opting
for internal flights is perhaps worse than
attempting the roads. Air Madagascar, the
internal flight carrier, is unpredictable and
sketchy at best. On the morning of my birthday,
my flight east to Morondava is cancelled at
the airport, upon check-in. On tight itineraries,
which are the case for most travellers I meet,
attempting to see as much of the country in
a limited time, these cancellations and delays
are a real setback. Due to my schedule, my only
option is to charter a private flight or miss the
giant ancient baobabs – symbol of Madagascar.
I take the charter. It isn’t cheap but, if finances
allow, domestic travel agency Asisten Travel has
a fleet available, often at short notice.
A road trip is a delightful challenge for the
adventurous heart. Forget traffic lights,
462
lanes and rules. Here, some roads have more
potholes than tarmac. National ‘highways’
zigzag across the country. Whilst some have
been significantly improved in the past 10
years, others are little more than dirt tracks.
Driver-guides here deserve a medal for the
way they diligently handle the roads, whilst
simultaneously offering tales from each village
and town we pass, subconsciously feeding
my understanding of the nation. I learn to
relish the adventure on 8-hour drives, looking
around through villages and forests, beginning
to appreciate the journey as much as the destinations. The sights through the window tug
at the heartstrings and engage every emotion
from the deepest abyss of the heart. In fact,
it’s only on these road journeys that one gains
a true and honest sense of what constitutes
much of Madagascar.
L’allee des Baobabs, symbol
of Madagascar
Alley of the Baobabs or ‘L'Allee des Baobabs’
is a national highlight. The day I visit coincides my birthday and the pilot treats me by
swooping low over the site, allowing breathtaking views of the baobabs and surrounding
lakes and greenery. Upon landing, I’m whisked
straight to Baobab Alley for sunset, where
a glowing fireball casts molten shades onto
the ancient 1000-year-old hulking bulking
baobabs and their elephantine trunks. It’s a
visual I’ll never forget. The Alley of Baobabs is
positioned along a dirt-track, a very bumpy
30-minute drive from the airport and closest
coastal city of Morondava. Farmers and their
families live in and around the surrounding
bush. Carrying firewood and pots on their
heads, whilst wrapped in vibrant flowing
materials, the girls make a stunning portrait
against the breathtaking backdrop. This truly is
the heart of Madagascar. Some tribes worship
the baobabs as symbols of their ancestors.
Their majesty reigns supreme. At sunset, I’m
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